Models of Fashion: New Designs as Fresh Young Leaves: The Courtesan Tagasode of Daimonjiya with Katsuru, Tomeki and Attendants

The woodblock print above displays five women who worked in the Yoshiwara district, the protagonist of this print is the woman in the center, Courtesan Tagasode of Daimonjiya. She is the highest ranking courtesan in this work. One can infer this from her central position in the woodblock print and through her intricate kimono. When determining what makes a kimono expensive one must look at a variety of factors such as: colors, types of patterns, amount of layers, fabrics, labor intensity. Here, Courtesan Tagasode of Daimonjiya’s kimono echoes her high rank. The red and greens in the outer layer are the first indicator. Red, especially that shade, would have been restricted by sumptuary laws and reserved for individuals of the high society. This means that her clients, most likely, belonged to high social classes and purchased that garment for her as a gift. The greens are symbolic of the idea of the virtuous gentleman, a highly coveted ideal in Edo society. Moreover, the outer layer displays Mount Fuji, an iconic symbol of Japan, as it is known as a sacred site to many. Members of high rank’s kimonos’ would display patterns with elements of cultural significance to show class, education and sophistication, which is exactly the case here. Lastly, the kimono has multiple layers which is also a sign that the garment is more expensive thus being worn by someone of higher status. In addition, the Courtesan’s attendants wear kimonos that match hers further showing her significance in this work.

Esme Ortiz Image Courtesy of National Museum of Asian Art