[SPRING 1632]

As the title indicates, this diary chronicles a second or later trip to Mount Tiantai in Zhejiang, undertaken nineteen years after his first visit in 1613. For a translation of the first diary, see “A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Tiantai,” this volume.

Renshen year, fourteenth day of the third month [2 May 1632]: I set out from Ninghai County on horseback, proceeded forty-five li, then stopped to spend the night at Branch Road Crossing [Chalu Kou]. Fifteen li to the southeast is Mulberry Islet Relay Station [Sangzhou Yi], on the road to Tai Commandery.¹ Ten li to the southwest is Pine Gate Ridge, on the road into Tiantai County.

Fifteenth day [3 May]: I crossed Jellyfish Stream [Shuimu Xi], climbed to Pine Gate Ridge, and passed Jade Kindness Mountain [Yu’ai Shan], covering altogether thirty li. Then had a meal at the retreat on Resilient Bamboo Ridge, which forms the border of Ninghai and Tiantai Counties. Scaled a mountain ridge for thirty-some li, which was tranquil and had no sign of people. Even the Amitabha Retreat of former times was abandoned.² On the next ridge, amid a dim and dusky succession of mountains, I came across a village family who made tea for me. I drank it while sitting on a rock. After another ten-some li, passed a ridge and then went into Heavenly Sanctioned Monastery. Below Flowery Summit Peak, the site of this monastery is Mount Tiantai’s most secluded spot. I dismounted my horse. Then, with the monk Lacking Excess (Wuyu), I ascended Flowery Summit Monastery [Huading Si], where I spent the night in the monk Pure Causation’s (Jingyin) quarters.³ The moonlight was bright and lustrous. The monastery site was still three li from the summit. Taking advantage of the moonlight, I ascended alone. But I mistakenly climbed to Gazing at the Sea Pinnacle [Wanghai Jian] on the eastern peak. Only after I turned west did I come to the trail to Flowery Summit. When I returned to the monastery, it was already past the first watch.

Sixteenth day [4 May]: Taking advantage of the moonlight at the fifth drum, I ascended Flowery Summit to observe the sunrise. My clothes and sandals were completely soaked, so I returned to the monastery to dry my clothes by a fire. From the right side of the monastery, I passed over a ridge, descended south for ten li, and reached Watershed Ridge [Fenshui Ling]. The river west of the peak comes out from Rock Bridge; the river east of the peak comes out from Heavenly Sanctioned Monastery. Following a stream, I turned north, where the rocks in the water gradually became more sublime. After ten more li, passed Upper Vaipulya Retreat and reached Dharma Flower Pavilion, where I observed the extraordinary beauty of Rock Bridge. It seemed like we were getting to know each other for the first time.

Seventeenth day [5 May]: As before, I came out at Watershed Ridge and proceeded south for ten li, then climbed to Scrutiny Ridge [Chaling]. The ridge is very high. Together with Flowery Summit, it marks the division between Mount Tiantai’s northern and southern sections. Descended to the west and reached Dragon King Hall. This area is where the various roads meet and converge. Proceeded south for ten li and reached Cold Wind Watchtower [Hanfeng Que]. Then proceeded farther south, descended ten li, and reached Silver Land Ridge [Yindi Ling], the site of the Sage Pagoda [Zhizhe Ta]. It is now abandoned. Turned left and came to Great Compassion Monastery [Dabei Si]. Next to the monastery is a rock, which forms the place Where the Sage Honors the Sutras Terrace [Zhizhe Baijing Tai].⁴ The monastery monk Persistent Compliance (Hengru) cooked us a meal. Next, our traveling bags were sent separately from Clarity in the Realm Monastery down to the county. My older brother Xu Zuntang (1583–1653) and I, taking our light luggage, descended to Lofty Brightness Monastery [Gaoming Si].⁵ The monastery was rebuilt by Measureless (Wuliang), the Elucidating Master.⁶ To the right of the monastery is Sublime Stream [Youxi]. The scenic sites on the flank of the stream are called Circular Passage Cavern [Yuantong Dong], Pine Wind Belvedere [Songfeng Ge], and Numinous Echo Crag [Lingxiang Yan].

Eighteenth day [6 May]: Zhongzhao sat in Circular Passage Cavern while a monastery monk, serving as a guide, led me to explore the extraordinary qualities of some rocky bamboo shoots. Following a stream, I descended east and reached Snail Stream [Luoxi]. Tracing the stream, I ascended to the north, where sheer rocks stand along its two banks. A flying cascade pours water down profusely from the apex of the two banks. I stepped over rocks and treaded through the current for seven li, where a mountain curved around and a stream tumbled down. By this time, I had already reached the base of Rocky Bamboo Shoot Peak [Shisun Feng]. I looked up at the peak’s face but could not see anything. This was because a wall on the right shielded it. From the flank of the wall, I passed through a gap and descended. Then backtracked and came out on top of Rocky Bamboo Shoot Peak. Only then did I see a single rock standing straight up in a torrent. The torrent’s water pounded its base, forming a cascade seemingly poised in midair. This indeed is an extraordinary scenic spot. Following the stream, I turned north, where the two banks became even sheerer. As the stream descends, it forms a pool. This is Snail Pool [Luosi Tan]. Above it, cliff walls stand erect, while an abyss runs deep below it. I clambered along the flank of the bank, through overhanging vines, then crouched down on a rock and looked at the pool from afar. Above are rocky walls segmented into four branches, like a crossroads. Pool water scatters as it descends, so I could not glimpse its edge. In the very center of the pool is a single length of rock, spanning and recessed above the two banks, like a flying bridge. At the bridge, a waterfall plummets down into the pool from above. The height of the waterfall and the flying bridge are about the same. On all four sides are deep banks, winding and mingling, which may be gazed upon but not approached. This is not something the waterfall at Rock Bridge can equal. I had heard that Transcendent Being Shoes [Xianren Xie] is above the left of Cold Wind Watchtower, which I could have reached by passing over a ridge. But it suddenly began to rain, so I did not proceed. I returned to rest at Pine Wind Belvedere.

Twentieth day [8 May]: I reached Tiantai County. By the sixteenth day of the fourth month [3 June], I had backtracked from Mount Yandang and passed through all the surpassing scenic sites west of Mount Tiantai. Proceeded seven li north and reached the foot of Carmine Citadel. I looked up and saw cinnabar-like sunglow clouds, unbroken and uninterrupted, and a Buddhist pagoda crowning its apex, transfixed in deep mist and gathered in lush green. I ascended one li and reached Central Cave [Zhongyan].⁷ The Buddhist cottages near Central Cave are new and orderly, no longer dilapidated and falling apart as in the past. I was rushing to Rose Gem Terrace and Double Watchtowers, so there was no time to tread up the cliff again. So I crossed a ridge to the west and, from a small path, proceeded seven li and came out at Llama Bridge [Luoma Qiao]. Proceeded another fifteen li to the northwest and reached the left side of Waterfall Mountain [Pubu Shan], where I climbed to a ridge. Proceeded five li and ascended Paulownia Mountain [Tongbai Shan]. Crossed a ridge to the north, where I found a circuit of level farmland, surrounded and enveloped by swarms of peaks, where another world seems to have been created. Paulownia Palace is in the very center of the peaks. Only the middle ceremonial hall remains intact. The two stone statues of Boyi and Shuqi are still found in the chamber to the right.⁸ The sculpting and carving of the statues are much in the ancient style. These are relics that pre-date the Tang dynasty. Yellow caps have not lived here for a long time.

Crowds of farmers arrived to greet us sightseers, all stopping their tilling to come over and ask questions. So I pressed one of them to serve as our guide. I proceeded west for three li, crossed two small ridges, descended into some layered banks, and climbed Rose Gem Terrace. Its single peak juts out, looking down into a deep ravine. All three sides are ringed and shrouded by dangerous banks. The stream on the right of the banks, approaching from countless mountains in the northwest, pounds directly into the base of the peak. This is Hundred Rods Cliff. At the bottom of the bank, torrent water reaches below the foot of Rose Gem Terrace. Its profound depths of blue are as dark as kohl. This is known as Hundred Rods Dragon Pool [Baizhang Long Tan]. Yet another peak rises in front of the peaks, standing tall like a pillar. Its height is equal to that of the walls around it. This is the site of Rose Gem Terrace. The back of the terrace nestles against Hundred Rods Cliff. In front, it stands directly facing Double Watchtowers. Tiered walls wind around beyond it, the sides of which are sheer and attached in tandem. Those who climb up to the terrace first plummet down in their descent, seemingly in midair, from the northern peak, cross at a spot along the spine of a chasm measuring less than a foot, then ascend by pulling themselves up by grasping tree branches and looking up as they scale the terrace, all amidst jagged rocks and shifting sands. There is simply no place to put one’s foot.⁹

From the end of the terrace, I again clambered through and descended to the south, where rocks jut up. Among them, there is a cavity that forms a small shrine, which seems to have been fashioned by carving and hollowing out the rock. It is called Transcendent’s Throne [Xianzuo]. As for the extraordinary qualities of Rose Gem Terrace, the center of it seemingly suspends in midair, while the gulch below is cut off, with amassed lush green coiling all around it. The Double Watchtowers, also beyond Rose Gem Terrace, coil among the banks facing it and do not farther ascend from the base of the torrent, so they cannot be climbed. I remember twenty years ago when, together with Cloudy Peak, I came here from Peach Source.¹⁰ We traced a torrent outside the gulch and went inside it but did not deeply and exhaustively probe the mysteries of its inner recesses. Not until today did I look down to the edge of its cliffs, which are lofty and deep but lacking any other surpassing scenery.

I had a meal at Paulownia Palace, then continued my descent to the foot of the mountain. To the south, I crossed a stream from a small footpath, proceeded ten li, and exited the official road to Tiantai County at Barrier Ridge [Guanling]. Again I went south down a small footpath and through a crevice for ten li. Along the trail is a peak that stands transfixed like a celestial pillar. I inquired and learned that it is Green Mountain Abundance [Qingshan Zhuo]. Next, I traced a stream that approached from the south, then spent the night in a traveler’s cottage at Mesa Top Pool.

Seventeenth day [4 June]: Proceeded southwest from Mesa Top Pool for eight li and reached the Chen Family Residence in Jiangsi [Jiangsi Chenshi].¹¹ Crossed a stream and proceeded left for another eight li, then cut south into the mountains. Scaled two small ridges and proceeded another six li. Where overlapping streams twist and merge, I suddenly came upon a rocky crag towering aloft. To its south is Cold Cave; to its east is Bright Cave. I had the boy servant race ahead to cook a meal for us in Bright Cave Monastery [Mingyan Si] while the rest of us headed south toward Cold Cave. On the left side of the trail are overhanging banks twisted and in ranks, among which is a tremendously deep cavern. The rabbit-shaped rock that crouches and hides in front has both a “mouth” and “ears.” On the right side of the trail, a great stream twists as it moves along anxiously. Inside the cavern is a rock that sticks up like a raised lid. I was quite amazed by this sight. After entering the monastery, I asked the monks about looking for Dragon Whiskers Cavern [Longxu Dong] and Numinous Mushroom Rock [Lingzhi Shi]. They told me the rock I was asking about was the one with the raised lid I had just passed.

Cold Cave is behind the monastery. It is more than grand and spacious enough but falls short in exquisiteness and elegance. As I ascended from the cave’s right, I saw that the Magpie Bridge had come out.¹² I proceeded for one li along the trail I had just taken, and on the right, entered Dragon Whiskers Cavern. The trail is blocked and hampered by brush and brambles, so I ascended for about one li, where it seemed like I had transited through the Ninth Empyrean [Jiuxiao].¹³ The cavern is round and towering, bright and open. Inside is a tilted rock, which resembles Rock Bridge on Mount Yandang. The spring splashing water on top of the bridge seems to come from the same track as the one at Plantain Cavern [Bajiao Dong] near Precious Crown Monastery [Baoguan Si].

I descended the mountain and, as before, reached the trail crossing. To the east, I traced a small stream, then turned south and went into Bright Cave Monastery. The monastery is inside the crag, where rocky banks ring around it on all four sides. Only Eight Inch Pass on the eastern side provides a single-thread trail to get through. The caverns behind the monastery, gentle and graceful, are all different. To the caverns’ right is a rocky bamboo shoot that rears up. Although inferior to the bold and magnificent ones at Numinous Mushroom Rock, they are still nicely scaled down, exquisitely detailed, and seemingly of fine craftsmanship. After a meal, taking our previous trail on horseback, I sped for thirty li, backtracking to Mesa Top Pool. Proceeded north for another twenty-five li and passed Big Stream, which approaches from Barrier Ridge in the west and forms Triple Thatch Grass Stream [Sanmao Xi]. Proceeded north for another five li, crossed two small mountain streams, and went straight until reaching the area below a mountain in the north. I went into Protecting the Realm Monastery and spent the night there.

Eighteenth day [5 June]: I hurriedly paid my respects at Peach Source at dawn. Peach Source is two li east of Protecting the Realm Monastery and only eight li west of Paulownia. Yesterday, when I was sightseeing at Paulownia, I thought I would save Peach Source for when I returned on the trail from climbing Myriad Years Monastery, so I chose to visit Cold and Bright Caves instead. But when I reached Protecting the Realm Monastery, I realized that west of there is Exquisite Stream [Xiuxi], which goes down to Myriad Years Monastery and provides even more opportunity to take in the surpassing scenic sights at Nine Li Hollow [Jiuli Keng]. Hence, I made a special effort to press on to Peach Source. First I went into a ravine for about one li and came to Golden Bridge Pool [Jinqiao Tan]. I ascended from there. The two mountains on each side became more confining; their blue-green walls and vaulted banks stand in layered piles that zig and zag, with a stream interposed between them. Tracing the stream, it turned three times and ended where a waterfall, several rods high, poured into the stream from the left bank.

During my earlier visit, when I arrived below the waterfall, the trail ended so no one could ascend. I looked up at the vaulted banks towering aloft in the north. Along the left and right sides of the stream, the peaks, like hair buns, are exquisite and enchanting, clustering and resting upright. Where the misty lush green joins and glides on, I could not go there. But today, suddenly, from inside some clumped brush on the right bank, I sought out and found a footpath with layer upon layer of stone on it, and so with no time to shout out to Zhongzhao, braving the rain, I poked through the thorns and ascended. After the stone steps ended, I took a path with layered rocks and a transverse plank walkway. By the time I crossed to the left of the bank, I had already come out above the waterfall. Next, I traced deeper along the stream directly below a cliff to the north, where the footpath and stone steps both ended. Two waterfalls descend from the cliff, one on the left and one on the right. I looked into the far distance, where some stone steps remained to the left of the cliff. I followed them to where earlier rocks had been piled to make a bridge over the left waterfall. But the bridge’s center had already collapsed into rubble, so I could not cross. I looked at the upper current of the waterfall, which approached from the northeast through cramped walls only big enough for a single thread. I was able to get through by treading the current. I figured that the surpassing scenery to the left of the waterfall was not as good as the one on the right, so I turned back and then ascended and climbed through some huge rocks leaning toward the northwest and reached the area below a cavity in a gorge, where I came to a deep pool that looked ghastly. Everywhere on all four sides, it directly approaches the bottom of the gorge, so I could not scale and climb it. But if you gaze west from inside the pool, you see there are rock gorges inside other rock gorges, and above the waterfall, there is yet another poised waterfall. They all approach from unseen places in the northwest that are obscure, dark, deep, and distant. When they reach here, in riotous profusion, they jumble and tumble down onto winding banks and tapered walls, where mist and sunlight are now hidden, now in view, and where even the color of the rock seems about to take flight. After a long time, I returned, coming out below the layered waterfalls. Because Zhongzhao could not find the trail, he observed the waterfall alone. So together, we backtracked to Protecting the Realm Monastery.

I heard that at the mouth of Peach Source Stream, there is also a trail to climb up to the two monasteries, Compassionate Cloud [Ciyun] and Connecting to the Prime [Tongyuan]. We went down to Myriad Years Monastery, where the trail was somewhat shorter than the way we had come. I was especially eager to see the surpassing scenery at Exquisite Stream, so after a meal, we took the trail there as we had before. To the west proceeded four li, then cut north and down a stream. I traced the current for three li, then gradually turned and headed east. This area makes up Nine Li Hollow. When you reach the ravine’s end, a waterfall smashes into the eastern bank and then plummets down. Above it, jumbled peaks and forest trees stand upright, but no trail could be ascended. So I clambered and ascended through the ridge to the west. I wound around and came out to its north, where I turned around and looked down at the back of a waterfall. Twin rocks resembling a gate stuck upward. Dragon Pool is inside them.

Next, ascended to the northeast for several li. After passing over a ridge, a mountain mesa suddenly opened, and five peaks surrounded and enclosed me. Inside them, I came to Myriad Years Monastery. I was now thirty li from Protecting the Realm Monastery. Myriad Years Monastery serves as the western boundary of Tiantai County, directly opposite Heavenly Sanctioned Monastery. There is a rock bridge on its grounds. Myriad Years Monastery has many ancient conifer trees. I had a meal in the monastery. Proceeded northwest for another three li, then passed over a lofty ridge behind the monastery. Next, heading toward the west, I ascended and climbed up the corner of a ridge, proceeded for ten li, and reached Galloping into the Void Mountain [Tengkong Shan]. Descended to Bull Ox Ridge [Niugu Ling] and reached the foothills after three more li. Next, I proceeded west, passed over three small ridges for altogether fifteen li, and came out at Joint Villa [Huishu]. The main road approaches from the south, where I gazed at Celestial Dame Mountain [Tianlao Shan]. I had already crossed and passed by the mountain, which I thought was Joint Villa! Joint Villa, as it turns out, is just a level piece of land and nothing more. Next, I descended northwest for three li, where a stream gradually formed. I followed the stream for five li, then stopped to spend the night in a traveler’s cottage at Mottled Bamboo Village [Banzhu Cun].

As for the streams at Tiantai that I have seen, the Jellyfish Stream is due east. Northeast of Scrutiny Ridge and south of Flowery Summit is Watershed Peak [Fenshui Feng], which is not lofty. From the peak, the western tributary forms at Rock Bridge; the eastern tributary passes Heavenly Sanctioned Monastery. Jellyfish Stream winds around Plucking Stars Ridge [Zhaixing Ling] and heads east. It comes out at Pine Gate Ridge and then pours into the sea in Ninghai County. Due south is the stream of Cold Wind Watchtower, which descends to Clarity in the Realm Monastery, merges with the watercourse from Buddha’s Mound [Folong] east of the monastery and then flows into Great Stream from west of the county wall. East of Clarity in the Realm Monastery is Snail Stream, the source of which originates at Transcendent Being Shoes, then plummets down to form Snail Pool, comes out to join with Sublime Stream, then flows into Great Stream from east of the county wall. Farther east are the various watercourses of Oak Tree Stream [Youxi], but my straw sandals have never been there.

The large stream west of Clarity in the Realm Monastery is the Waterfall River [Pubu Shui], the course of which flows west from Dragon King Hall, then passes Mount Paulownia and forms Maiden Shuttle Stream [Nüsuo Xi]. It passes through three pools in front, then plummets down, forming a waterfall. This, then, is the source of Clear Stream. Farther west are the watercourses of Rose Gem Terrace and Double Watchtowers. Their sources should originate southeast of Myriad Years Monastery. To the east, they pass Arhat Ridge, then descend into a deep ravine to form Dragon Pool at Hundred Rods Cliff. They wind around Rose Gem Terrace and join Blue Stream [Qingxi]. The course of Peach Source forms farther to the west. Along its upper reaches are overlapping waterfalls, which enter from east and west to pour down. Its source should have come from somewhere around Connecting to the Prime Monastery, but I could not thoroughly probe its source. Farther west are the watercourses that form the Sublime Stream. Its source comes from the ridge at Myriad Years Monastery. It descends to the west and forms Dragon Pool Waterfall. Its western flow forms Nine Li Hollow, which comes out southeast of Sublime Stream and then departs. The various streams from west of Blue Stream all flow southeast into Big Stream. Farther due west are the streams of Barrier Ridge and King’s Crossing [Wangdu], but my straw sandals have never been there. Farther north from here are the various watercourses of Joint Villa Ridge, which also, from due west of there and the northwest, pour into Xinchang County. Farther north are Blessed Stream [Fuxi] and Luomu Stream [Luomu Xi], both of which come out from the north of Tiantai County, while in the west, they form Xinchang County’s Big Stream, but my straw sandals have never been there either.

—Translated by James M. Hargett

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Source: “You Tiantai Shan riji hou” (YJJZ, 1:110–16; YJ, 1:69–73).

1. 1  That is, Taizhou Prefecture.

2. 2  In his earlier (1613) trip to Mount Tiantai, Xu Xiake mentions how the monk’s quarters on Carmine Crag were in “disorder and disarray” (diary entry for 26 May), this volume.

3. 3  In his first Mount Tiantai diary, Xu refers to this monastery as Flowery Summit Retreat (diary entry for 22 May), this volume.

4. 4  The “sage” mentioned in this line and the last place-name refer to the Buddhist monk Wise Serenity (Zhiyi), who founded the Tiantai sect of Buddhism on the mountain in the sixth century.

5. 5  Xu Zuntang (courtesy name Zhongzhao) is Xu Xiake’s older paternal cousin. Not much is known about him, but as mentioned earlier, he helped with the editing of Xu Xiake’s diaries after Xu’s death, and he was one of the compilers of the Chongzhen Reign Period Gazetteer for Jiangyin County (Chongzhen Jiangyin xianzhi). Since Xu Xiake often refers to his cousin as Zhongzhao in the diaries, we make an exception in the translations and refer to him by his courtesy name.

6. 6  The title elucidating master (jiangshi) refers to someone who lectures on the dharma.

7. 7  Reading Zhongyan 中巖, or “Central Cave,” as a proper noun.

8. 8  Boyi and his older brother Shuqi supposedly lived during the final years of the Shang dynasty. The two brothers refused to succeed their father as suzerain of the Shang vassal-state Guzhu for reasons related to what they regarded as proper filial piety. They likewise refused to pledge their loyalty to the Zhou dynasty, which had succeeded the Shang. Both decided to starve to death rather than live under the Zhou political regime, which they viewed as illegitimate.

9. 9  In other words, this is no place to be sightseeing.

10. 10  On Xu Xiake’s earlier exploration of Mount Tiantai in 1613 with the Buddhist monk Cloudy Peak, see “A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Tiantai,” this volume

11. 11  This place is not further identified.

12. 12  In this line, Magpie Bridge refers to the Milky Way.

13. 13  That is to say, the highest point in the sky.