[SPRING 1623, XI’AN PREFECTURE, HUAYIN COUNTY, SHAANXI]

Mount Taihua (Taihua Shan; lit., “Grand Flower Mountain”), known today as Mount Hua, is one of China’s Five Sacred Mountains. Because of its location in Shaanxi, it is also known as the Sacred Mountain in the West. Its main scenic attractions—the so-called Three Peaks (Sanfeng; referring to Mount Taihua’s East, West, and South Peaks)—figure prominently in Xu Xiake’s diary entries below. Xu Xiake’s mountain exploration begins at the Sacred Mountain in the West Temple [Xiyue Miao], 1 mi/1.5 km east of Huayin County on the north side of Mount Taihua.

Last day of the second month [30 March 1623]: Entered Tong Pass [Tongguan] and, after twenty-five li, halted our horses and rested at the Sacred Mountain in the West Temple.¹ The Yellow River courses south from the northern deserts. When it reaches Tong Pass, it cuts to the east. The pass directly faces the river and an entrance to a mountain defile. To the north, one sees the river coursing this way; to the south, it connects with Hua, the Sacred Mountain [Huayue]. This single stretch is the only major east-west passageway, and one hundred parapets lock it in.² To turn north from here, one must cross the Yellow River; to head south, one must head toward Martial Pass [Wuguan]. South of Hua, the Sacred Mountain, there is impassable terrain with jagged rocky walls and layered cliffs. Before entering the Tong Pass, one can see Mount Taihua towering above the clouds from one hundred li away. But upon entry into the pass, one’s view is obstructed by hills and ridges. After proceeding twenty li, suddenly looking up, I saw stretch after stretch of hibiscus that

had already reached below the hills and ridges. Not only are the Three Peaks exquisite and matchless, but the various peaks to the east and west gather together, all with tapered cliffs overhanging in layers. Only to the north are there occasional earthen mounds. The mountain’s bones (shangu) are entirely revealed, competing to become its most surpassing spot.³

First day of the third month [31 March]: We went into the temple to pay our respects to the spirit of the Sacred Mountain in the West, then climbed to the Myriad Longevities Belvedere [Wanshou Ge]. Then hastened for fifteen li south of the sacred mountain and went into Cloudy Terrace Abbey [Yuntai Guan]. I hired a guide at Ten Quarters Retreat [Shifang An] and entered the mountain through the mouth of a valley. Cliff walls stood erect on both sides of the valley. A single stream emerges from inside the defile. Jade Spring Cloister [Yuquan Yuan] is positioned on its left. Skirting along the stream, we proceeded through the valley for ten li to Sal Tree Palace [Shaluo Gong], where the trail started to become steep. After another ten li is Green Stalk Mesa [Qingke Ping], where the trail slightly levels out. Proceeded five li and passed Scanty Sunlight Bridge [Liaoyang Qiao], where the trail turns sheer. Holding on to an iron chain, I clambered up for a thousand feet, then ascended another hundred feet into a gorge. Turned left from a cliff, ascended to Lord Lao’s Furrow [Laojun Ligou], and then passed Macaque Ridge [Husun Ling].⁴ Five li from Green Stalk Mesa, a peak looms down from the north in a deep precipice with sheer walls on three sides. This is White Cloud Peak [Baiyun Feng].⁵ Giving up on our route south, we then ascended Dark Dragon Ridge [Canglong Ling], passing Sun and Moon Cliff [Riyue Yan]. Proceeded another five li from Lord Lao’s Furrow and began ascending the Three Peaks’ foothills. We ascended toward the East Peak flank and paid our respects at the Jade Maiden Shrine [Yunü Ci]. We then went into Welcoming Sunlight Cavern [Yinyang Dong]. A Daoist adept surnamed Li had me stay overnight there. I thereupon had some spare time and ascended East Peak. At dusk, I backtracked to the cavern.

Second day [1 April]: From the northern foot of the South Peak [Nanfeng] ascended to its summit then descended an overhanging cliff to the south, where we spotted a quiet and isolated hideaway. Next, we ascended, climbing directly to the ultimate summit.⁶ There is a small opening on the summit. The Daoist pointed out this is the Looking Up at the Sky Pond [Yangtian Chi]. Next to it is the Black Dragon Pool [Heilong Tan]. We descended from the west and ascended the West Peak [Xifeng]. The rocks on the summit towered aloft. A slab of rock covered them like a lotus leaf. Next to them is Jade Well [Yujing], which is quite deep, concealed by a belvedere.⁷ I do not know why. Returned for a meal at Welcoming Sunlight Cavern. Then ascended the East Peak. Hanging down from a cliff to the south, a small terrace stands sheer in the middle of a gulch. This is Chessboard Terrace [Qipan Tai]. After ascending the terrace, I bid farewell to the Daoist adept and descended along our previous footpath, where I observed White Cloud Peak and Sacred Mother Ceremonial Hall [Shengmu Dian]. Descended and reached Sal Tree Mesa. Dusk was closing in, so we quickly left the valley. I proceeded three li in the dark and stopped to spend the night at Ten Directions Retreat [Shifang An]. Departed from the left side of Green Stalk Mesa and ascended, where there are Cup Crossing Retreat [Beidu An] and Shaggy Woman Retreat [Maonü An]. Departed from the right side of Sal Tree Mesa and ascended, where there is Upper Vaipulya Peak [Shangfang Feng]. All of these places are on Mount Hua’s branch peaks. The trail was sheer and steep everywhere. The sun was setting, so it was too late to climb farther.

Third day [2 April]: Proceeded fifteen li and went into the Sacred Mountain Temple [Yuemiao].⁸ Leaving through the west gate of Huayin County, I followed a small footpath and proceeded southwest for twenty li. Then came out to Deep Valley [Hongyu], the third valley west of Mount Hua. The valley’s two cliffs rise to touch the sky, and the space between them is quite narrow. A river flows swiftly between them. Turned at a ravine and proceeded south. Swiftly cut east then swiftly turned west. Presumably, the walls of the mountain are cut steeply, just like the jagged teeth of a dog. I proceeded through a gap in the “teeth,” twisting and twining my way as if navigating a boat on a river. Proceeded twenty li and stopped to spend the night at Wooden Cup [Mubei]. On my way here from Sacred Mountain Temple, we had covered forty-five li.

Fourth day [3 April]: Proceeded twenty li. After thoroughly probing the mountain valleys, I ascended Deep Ridge [Hongling]. After treading ten more li reached the apex of the ridge. I gazed at Greater Hua to the north, standing motionless beyond the skies. To the east, I looked off at a single peak, jutting and jagged, peculiar and striking. The locals call it Rival Hua Mountain [Saihua Shan]. Only then did I realize that Lesser Hua Mountain [Shaohua Shan], thirty-five li to the southwest, is this same mountain. Descended ten li to the south, where a stream approaching from the southeast surges to the northwest. This is the Huayang River [Huayang Chuan]. Proceeded upriver and east for ten li, then climbed Qin Ridge [Qinling] to the south, which marks the boundary between Huayin and Luonan Counties. Then ascended and descended for altogether five li. After ten more li is Yellow Snail Hamlet [Huangluo Pu]. Following the stream, descended to the southeast. After thirty li, stopped to spend the night at Yang Family City [Yangshi Cheng].

Fifth day [4 April]: Proceeded twenty li. The mountain did not open until I came out of Rock Gate. After seven more li, I cut to the southeast, then went into Apart from the Ordinary Valley [Gefan Yu]. Twenty li to the southeast are the valleys of Luonan County. After three li to the southeast, I crossed a ridge and proceeded through a valley. After ten li, I exited the mountain to where the Luo River approaches from the west and then flows east. This is the upper reaches of the river that crosses Henan. Crossed the Luo River and ascended to a summit called the Tian Family Plateau [Tianjia Yuan]. After five li descended into a valley where a river approaching from the south flows into the Luo River. I continued upstream for fifteen li to Prospect Village [Jingcun]. The mountain opened up, and only then did I see rice paddy fields. After passing the paddy fields, I continued upriver and entered a valley to the south. Proceeded south for five li and reached Grass Tree Gully [Caoshu Gou]. The mountain was deserted, and the sun was setting, so I put up for the night with a family on the mountain. From the Sacred Mountain Temple to Wooden Cup, you proceed southwest all the way. After passing the Huayang River, you then head southeast. South of the River, the streams gradually become wider while the mountains gradually open up. However, the peaks in front of you are towering and tall. I descended Qin Ridge and reached Yang Family City. The two cliffs there suddenly open and then suddenly close. Only occasionally do they appear at the same time. Moreover, unlike the cliffs in the valley at Wooden Cup, where the two cliff walls stand upright, they twist and turn with no openings or closings.

Sixth day [5 April]: Crossed two ridges, covering altogether twenty-five li, and then had a meal at Col Bottom Junction [Wudi Cha]. The walking trail west of there is the one that goes to Luonan. Next, proceeded ten li and passed the boundary of Shang County, which is more than seventy li from Luonan. Next, proceeded twenty-five li and ascended Dark Dragon Ridge. I wiggled and writhed my way to the top of the ridge, where two streams curl and crook around it. After five li, I descended the ridge to where two streams meet and converge. I followed the stream and entered Lord Lao’s Valley [Laojun Yu]. After ten li, sunset rain suddenly began to fall, so I put up for the night at the entrance to the valley.

Seventh day [6 April]: Proceeded five li and left the valley. A great stream approached from the west and then surged east. Following the stream, I proceeded ten li to Fine Horse Stronghold [Longju Zhai]. Martial Pass is ninety li east of the stronghold. West toward Shang County is the shortcut through Shaanxi. Merchants with horses and mules avoid the road through Tong Pass.⁹ Flat-bottom boats heading down the river are superior to larger cargo craft. The river reaches here from west of Shang County, then passes south of Martial Pass, transits to Hu Family Village [Hucun], and reaches Xiao Jiangkou, where it flows into the Han River [Hanshui]. I hurriedly looked for a boat. When I had just found one, the rain started to pour down. It rained all day, never stopping, so the ship could not cast off.

Eighth day [7 April]: The boatman was dealing in the salt trade, so we did not set off for a long time. After the rain stopped, the angry stream rushed ahead like a galloping horse, sandwiched between two mountains, zigging and zagging, winding and looping around, where dangerous terrain roared into the earth like booming thunder, no different from Jian Stream (Jianxi).¹⁰ A short time later, the rain resumed. By noon, we reached Shadow Rock Rapids [Yingshi Tan]. But the rain intensified, so we moored at Little Shadow Rock Rapids [Xiao Yingshi Tan].

Ninth day [8 April]: Proceeded forty li; passed Dragon Pass [Longguan]. After another fifty li, a single stream surged toward us from the north, from Martial Pass. Forty li north of there presumably lies the southern border of Shang County. By then, the floating clouds had already disappeared, and a bright sun rode high in the sky. The overlapping mountain mists competed in their elegance while an angry current sped the boat along. The two banks had abundant peach blossoms and gorgeous plum flowers, which danced in the shimmering light. Sitting at the boat’s bow, I could not help but feel like I was a transcendent. After another eighty li, it was still not yet evening. The boatmen bartered their salt for firewood and bamboo, causing repeated delays. So we moored for the night by a mountain shore.

Tenth day [9 April]: Proceeded fifty li, then descended the Lotus Rapids [Liantan]. Waves beat against the boat, drenching our bags and soaking our chests. After twenty li, passed the Hundred Surnames Rapids [Baixing Tan], where a peak towered abruptly to the right of the stream. Its cliffs, eroded by the water, are precariously perched and seemingly on the verge of collapse. After one leaves the Western Shu Loft [Xi Shu Lou], the mountain valleys open up a little. We had already passed into the territory of Nanyang Prefecture and Zhechuan County, which mark the border between Qin and Yu.¹¹ Proceed thirty li and passed Hu Family Village. After another forty li, we reached Stone Temple Bend [Shimiao Wan], where we went ashore and put up at an inn. Heading southeast from there leads to Jun County and farther up to Taihe County, another 130 li distant, or so I was told.

—Translated by James M. Hargett

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Source: “You Taihua Shan ri ji; Xi’an fu, Huayin xian” (YJJZ, 1:72–78; YJ, 1:46–49). Xi’an Prefecture is the area around Xi’an Shi in Shaanxi. Modern Huayin County is just north of Mount Taihua.

1. 1  Tong Pass is a historically strategic mountain pass in Shaanxi. It has served as an important transportation route since ancient times, connecting the Central Plains of China with the Western Regions. It has also played a strategic military role throughout Chinese history.

2. 2  A “parapet” (zhi) is a section measurement of a city wall, measuring three zhang long and one zhang high. The point here is that the massive walls of Tong Pass “lock in” the Yellow River.

3. 3  “Mountain’s bones” here refer metaphorically to the essential rocky features of the mountain.

4. 4  The “furrow” (ligou) mentioned here is a deep and treacherous ravine squeezed between steep cliffs, with over 570 stone steps. Legend has it that Laozi, the Supreme Taoist Deity, passed through this place and, seeing no way forward, used a green ox to plow overnight and create this mountain gully or “furrow.” Macaque Ridge was at the top of the stone stairway. YJJZ, 1:76n5.

5. 5  Also known as Cloudy Terrace Peak.

6. 6  The ultimate summit of South Peak is the highest point on the mountain, at 7,086 ft/2,160 m.

7. 7  According to Zhu Huirong, YJJZ, 1:77n10, there is no “Jade Well” on Mount Taihua. He suspects that some text is missing in this diary entry.

8. 8  This is the same temple where Xu Xiake began his visit to Mount Taihua. He referred to it earlier as the “Sacred Mountain in the West Temple.”

9. 9  In other words, merchants prefer the shorter route.

10. 10  Jian Stream is in Fujian and is known for its dangerous rapids. In his earlier diaries, Xu Xiake mentions Jian Stream several times.

11. 11  Qin and Yu are abbreviations for Shaanxi and Henan, respectively.