[SPRING 1632]

The sightseeing trip to Mount Tiantai with my elder brother Zhongzhao took place in the third month of the renshen year (1632). By the twenty-eighth day of the fourth month [15 June], we had reached Huangyan County, where I paid a second visit to Mount Yandang.¹ We rented horses and departed from the south gate. Followed Square Mountain [Fangshan] for ten li then cut southwest for thirty li. Passed over Exquisite Ridge [Xiuling] and had a meal at Cliff Front Post Station [Yanqian Pu]. Proceeded five li to the border of Yueqing County.² Five li after that, we climbed Winding Mountain Ridge. A cloaked and concealed bouquet of hibiscus revealed itself amid clouds and mist in the northwest. This is Mount Yandang. Proceeded ten li to Zheng Family Ridge [Zhengjia Ling]. Another ten li took us to Big Thistle Relay Station. Crossed Rock Gate Stream [Shimen Jian], where recent rain had swelled the stream. The stream’s water came up to the bellies of our horses. Spent the night at the Zhang Family Inn. This is in Mount Yandang’s outer valley to the east. When the Zhang clan thrived here, they built this inn so the sandals of sightseers going to the mountain could rest. Its lodges and shops are now desolate and deserted, yet its name remains.

Twenty-ninth day [16 June]: I entered the mountain from the west and, gazing at Venerable Monk Cliff, pressed on. Proceeded two li and passed the foot of a cliff. After two more li, to the north, crossed a stream and ascended to Rock Bridge Cavern. I returned to the stream and proceeded east for two li, passing Master Xie’s Ridge. Inside the ridge is the mountain’s interior valley to the east. There is a stream below the ridge that approaches from the north. Everywhere on both sides of the stream are deep cliffs and odd-looking peaks, boldly protruding without an inch of soil on their surface, carved and cut into a hundred postures. I crossed the stream, cut north for about one li, and entered Numinous Peak Monastery. Peak after peak, remarkable and sheer, standing side by side, flooded the trail ahead. Behind the monastery, a single peak towers high above. It is ruptured by a crack in the middle, which reaches the peak’s summit. This is called Numinous Peak Cavern. I ascended, walking up a thousand steps. The rocky terraces overlap and are orderly in their arrangement. Arhat statues inside the cavern are all refurbished and new-like.

I descended for a meal in the monastery. With a monk, I crossed to the left of the stream by way of Shining Courage Pool [Zhaodan Tan], where I observed Windy Cavern [Fengdong]. The entrance to the cavern is a mere semicircle, from where a roar of wind bellows “boom-boom” to the outside for several paces. Next, from the left side of the stream, I explored the caverns inside the cliffs, one after the other. When I returned to Numinous Peak Monastery, it was raining heavily. Next, barefoot and holding an umbrella, I traced the stream and ascended north. Just as I was about to reach True Crossing Monastery [Zhenji Si], the mountains became deep-reaching, and the mists turned dark. Nothing was visible in this boundless expanse. So I returned, passing east of the stream, and entered Azure Empyrean Cavern. The Buddhist monk Safeguarding Foolishness (Shouyu) has a hermitage there. I sensed something extraordinary about him, so I had the servant return to the monastery and summon Zhongzhao, who came to join us. I regretted it was late by the time we met up. It was twilight, so we backtracked to spend the night at Numinous Peak Monastery.

Thirtieth day [17 June]: Braving the rain, we followed the current and cut west for two li to where a single stream approaches from the northwest to merge with this one, its force now even greater. Crossed the stream and headed west. Going upstream, proceeded northwest for three li and went into the Vimalakīrti Monastery. The rain became increasingly heavy. Amid clouds and mist, I looked up and saw two cliffs straddled by overlapping cliffs standing erect, which ascended layer after layer. I had no idea how far the sequence of layers extended. My clothes and sandals became soaked through. I proceeded increasingly farther into the far reaches of the valley to the west. Inside it are scenic sites such as Water Curtain Valley, Vimalakīrti Stone Chamber [Weimo Shishi], and Elucidating the Dharma Terrace [Shuofo Tai]. Proceeded two li and reached Echo Cliff. On the right side of the cliff are two caverns, the exteriors of which are covered by a flying waterfall. My sandals treaded through hazelnut thistles to make the dangerous climb to the caverns. One cavern is named Dragon King [Longwang]; the other is called Three Terraces [Santai]. In front of the two caverns is a cliff that juts out, which is sort of like an open platform and is accessible using a plank walkway. After leaving the cavern, I backtracked and looked into the distance at the top of Echo Cliff, where a single rock seemed to prick its ear to attach to the peak’s summit. This rock forms Old Man Listening to Poems [Tingshi Sou]. Proceeded west another two li and went into Numinous Cliff Monastery. When you turn west from Numinous Peak Monastery, there are tiered crags and linked barriers everywhere. One opening leads through the cliffs and barriers to Vimalakīrti Monastery. A separate fissure leads directly through them, called Single Thread of Sky. A second opening leads to Numinous Cliff Monastery, which is circled and ringed by tiered barriers, with the monastery positioned right in the center.

This next diary entry is fascinating because it vividly describes the extreme dangers Xu Xiake would sometimes face when trying to reach remote scenic sites where “all traces of humans are severed and cut off.”

First day of the fifth month [18 June]: Zhongzhao and I climbed to Celestial Perception Cavern together. From inside the cavern, we gazed east at two round caverns. To the north, we gazed at a long cavern. All three of them have openings through which bright light shines. It is just that Celestial Perception’s sheer rockfaces descend directly down, so they are cut off and inaccessible. As a result, I turned around and went back down to the monastery.³ Toting a ladder, I cut a path through the brush, leading the servant boy over another col directly to the area below the round caverns. We put the ladder in place to make the climb, but it needed to reach farther. I then chopped down some tree branches and inserted them crosswise between rocks. We stepped across the tree branches to ascend, but again, they would not reach far enough. I then used a rope to pull up the ladder, which I laid across some trees growing in the rocky crevice. When we could no longer use the ladder, we used the tree branches; when we could no longer use the tree branches, we used the ladder. When we could no longer use the ladder or tree branches, we pulled on the rope to work through the trees. In due course, we made it into the round caverns. I shouted to Zhongzhao at Celestial Perception Cavern, and we chatted while gazing at each other. Next, I treaded to the long cavern using the same method and descended. By then, it was already midday.

Heading west, I reached the area below the Little Dragon Splash Pool. I wanted to go and look for Sword Spring [Jianquan] but needed help finding the way there. I crouched down to rest on a pile of rocks, then looked up to see whirling mountain barriers pressing hard against the heavens. Sheer peaks seemed to stick into the ground upside down. Flying water currents from the spring seemed to hang in the air inside the peaks. Indeed, it seemed as though a stream of silk had been hauled down from the Nine Heavenly Realms (Jiutian). Heading farther west, passed Little Shears Peak. After that, we passed Iron Plank Barrier. The peak’s barrier unfolds into a square, just like a standing screen. Standing tall, it pokes into the tops of layered cliffs; below it, there is a single gap that resembles a gate. Except for clouds and mist that come and go, all traces of humans are severed and cut off. Next we passed Avalokiteśvara Cliff. The trail gradually turned west, then gradually broadened, forming Ploughshare Pinnacle, which towers next to Constant Clouds Peak. Constant Clouds Peak descends to the south. It tumbles down but rises again, forming Capped Polestar Peak [Daichen Feng]. Where it tumbles down, there is a depression called Saddle Ridge, which divides the inner valley into east and west, with this ridge forming the boundary between them. From Numinous Cliff to Horse Saddle Ridge, it is about four li, along which tiered tors tower and rise high. It has more sightseers than it can accommodate. Passed over a ridge, where sunlight gradually faded behind Mount Yanzi [Yanzi Shan].⁴ Proceeded two li, and to the west passed the mouth of the stream at Big Dragon Splash Pool. Proceeded another two li to the southwest and went into Nengren Monastery to spend the night.

Second day [19 June]: I searched for some square bamboo in a col behind the monastery, but there were no good ones.⁵ Above me was the Dharma Flower Pavilion, which is secluded and tranquil. I departed from the right of the monastery, where I observed Swallowtail Spring [Yanwei Quan]. Where the stream’s flow approaches from the Dragon Splash Pool, it divides into two courses and then drops down into some rocks. Hence, the name.

As before, I headed upstream for two li and, to the west, entered the stream mouth at the Dragon Splash Pool. Proceeded another two li to the west and went into some cliffs through Linked Clouds Barrier [Lianyun Zhang], where Big Shears Peak stands tall and upright inside a canyon. The rocky walls of its two cliffs turn and merge while water going down into the Big Dragon Splash Pool plummets from the sky. I sat and looked around at the Insufficient Pavilion [Buzu Ting]. In front, it faces the Dragon Splash Pool; in back, it bows to Big Shears Peak with hands clasped. I found myself with mountains all around me. I came out at Linked Clouds Peak, passed over Flowery Cliff Ridge [Huayan Ling] for altogether two li, and went into Arhat Monastery [Luohan Si]. The monastery had been abandoned for a long time. Abbot Recumbent Cloud (Woyun) recently renovated it. Recumbent Cloud is in his eighties. In physical appearance, resembling the Stone Arhat [Shi Luohan] at the Peak That Flew Hither, he is indeed the great force who founded this monastery.⁶ I invited the abbot to join me in thoroughly probing the summit. The abbot accepted, and together, we ascended Constant Cloudy Peak. Wild Goose Lake [Yanhu] was opposite us on the mountain’s western side, so it was more convenient to go by Rock Gate Monastery [Shimen Si]. Since it was already afternoon, we expected to reach Constant Clouds Peak the following day. So along with some of Recumbent Cloud’s disciples, I passed over a ridge to the east and reached the outer valley in the west, covering four li altogether, then passed the abandoned ruins of Rock Gate Monastery. I followed the stream west and descended for one li, where two streams approached from the west and merged. These are the various watercourses of Rising into the Clouds Monastery [Lingyun Si] and Precious Crown Monastery. The two water courses merge, head south, and flow into the sea. Next, we proceeded against the currents of the two streams approaching from the west. Spent the night at Rising into the Clouds Monastery. The monastery is below Holding Pearl Peak [Hanzhu Feng], a lone peak that pokes into the sky. Suddenly, it split in two from the summit to heel, barely less than a foot apart. Inside, it holds a single round stone shaped like a pearl, which is especially extraordinary and unsurpassing. Following a stream to the north, I went into a rocky gorge. This, then, is the site of Plum Rains Pool [Meiyu Tan]. A flying waterfall surges down from a rocky cliff wall, which is quite magnificent and simply unlike the usual hazy mists and rainy hues.

Third day [20 June]: As before, proceeded east for three li, heading north and upstream, then went into Rock Gate Monastery, where we stopped and took off our loads at the Huang Family Tomb Hall [Huangshi Mutang].⁷ We ascended north, one stone step at a time, to the summit of Wild Goose Lake. The trail is not very steep. Went straight up for two li. As we headed toward the mountains, they gradually hid from sight. Sea islets appeared before us. The more we ascended, the more the sea pressed below our feet. Ascended another four li and, in due course, passed by a mountain crest. The mountains, twisting and twining as they come in from the west, approach from the highest point in the northeast, then split into four branches. The composition of all these mountains changes from rock to earth. The ridges of the four branches, cloaked and concealed, bulge and rise. The spaces between them converge and form three hollows. Inside each hollow is another ridge, traversing north and south. In the middle, the ridges split the hollows in two. Altogether, these added up to no less than six hollows. Water has accumulated inside the hollows, forming places overgrown with dense and deep weeds that fill one’s gaze and flood one’s eyes. Visible in places from as far as the eye can see, this is called Wild Goose Lake. Where the water divides and plummets to the south, either it approaches from Rock Gate Monastery, coming out of Reaching the Clouds Monastery at Plum Rain Pool, or forms the flying waterfall at Precious Crown Monastery. Those that plummet down from the north are the watercourses from north of Mount Yandang, none of which have any connection to the Big Dragon Splash Pool. After passing over a ridge, I gazed south at the great sea, while to the north, looking down on the streams of South Postern [Nan’ge], all was unobstructed, far and near.⁸ Only the peaks to the east still loftily emerge on the far side of the clouds. I wanted to make a separate descent to Precious Crown Monastery in the northwest, but there was nowhere to put one’s feet in the overlying rocks and dense bush.

Next, we searched for our former trail that descends to Rock Gate Monastery. To the west passed Rising Into the Clouds Monastery. Proceeded two li beyond Holding Pearl Peak. Holding close to a stream, I visited Precious Crown Monastery. The temple is in an inaccessible col in a valley to the west, which has long been abandoned. In its deepest recesses, rocky walls turn and merge while the stone steps disappear entirely. A single cavern seemingly hangs poised above the foot of a cliff, with a slanted rock leaning against its entrance. The entrance is divided into two. The cavern is open and spacious, translucent and transparent. A flying waterfall spills down into the middle of it. Many banana plants (bajiao) are inside the cavern, resembling Fujian’s cannas (meiren jiao).⁹ Outside were new sheaths of bamboo shoots descending from above, gradually forming into a forest. Upon reaching the cavern, I heard the waterfall rumble like thunder, but the crag’s rocky wall turned around and put up a shield so I could not see the water. So I descended the mountain, waded across a stream, and then turned around to gaze at the right side, where the crag rolled around and formed a crack. The waterfall plummets directly down from inside the crack. It descends to pound into a round flat, then leaps out of it to create a stream that flows away. In height, it was second to the Dragon Splash Pool, but quite like it in its magnificence and surpassing quality. Thus, in no way is it a second-class attraction on Mount Yandang. I headed east on the trail I had taken before and spent the night at Arhat Monastery.

Fourth day [21 June]: Early in the morning, I gazed at Constant Clouds Peak, where hazy white clouds hid it from view. But this did not stop me. I urged Recumbent Cloud to accompany me on the ascent. We passed east over Flowery Cliff Ridge for two li, then climbed steps from the left of Linked Clouds Barrier and the right of Trail Pine Cavern [Daosong Dong], ascending for three li. When I looked down, Shears Peak was already below my sandals. Proceeded another li, where the mountain turned, and a stream emerged. This is the stream’s upper reaches that go to the Dragon Splash Pool. We crossed the stream and passed two cottages of White Cloud (Baiyun) and Beyond the Clouds (Yunwai). Headed north and went into Cloudy Calm Retreat. Recumbent Cloud had his disciple gather some bamboo shoots and cook us a meal. After we finished the meal, the cloudy vapors above the various peaks swiftly vanished. Zhongzhao stayed behind to rest in the retreat while Recumbent Cloud and I climbed directly up the peak to the east. Proceeded another two li, where we gradually heard the sound of water. This was the water of the Big Dragon Splash Pool pouring down from inside the curling cliffs. The water emerges south of Ultimate Summit and north of Constant Clouds. Its source is hemmed inside a col.

Proceeding against the current, I ascended for two li, where the sound of the water gradually grew faint. Proceeded another two li and passed over a mountain crest. To the north, the crest nestles against the mountain’s ultimate summit. It comes out to the south and divides into two branches. The eastern branch forms Avalokiteśvara Cliff; the western branch forms Constant Clouds Peak. The two branches join here. The area east of the main ridge forms Wu Family Hollow [Wujia Keng]. Near where its peak turns and aligns forms Iron Plank Barrier. It coils around and forms Numinous Crag; where it again curls around, it forms Vimalakīrti’s Stone Chamber. And where it again curves around, it forms Numinous Peak. Beyond there forms Master Xie’s Ridge, where the peaks end. The ravine west of the ridge forms the back of the Dragon Splash Pool. Where its peak turns and aligns, nearby it forms the cliff right in front of the Dragon Splash Pool, which next coils around to form Hibiscus Peak [Furong Feng], then next coils around to form Rising into the Clouds, and then finally coils around to form Precious Crown. Above it forms Li Family Mountain [Lijia Shan], where the peaks end. These are the various peaks on the southern side of Mount Yandang. But the two peaks, Avalokiteśvara and Constant Clouds, are in the center. They were already hidden below our walking sticks and sandals by this time. Only the peak to the north seems to carry a standing screen on its back, which stands upright behind it.

We ascended two li to the north, where a single ridge, quietly towering aloft, is as narrow as an enclosing wall. Its two ends soar up, while to the north, its ridge submissively descends straight down. This forms the boundary of South Postern Stream’s [Nan’ge Xi] transverse flow, unlike the encircling and crisscrossing streams on the mountain’s southern side. As I climbed up to the western summit of the eastern apex, suddenly there arose a loud clattering and clanging sound, which was several dozen startled deer. The peak to its north was split down the middle like an axe had cleaved it. Inside it are rocky bamboo shoots, spikey and spiny. Amid a jumble of cliffs, a forest of trees stands upright, deep, dim, and seemingly bottomless. As they sped off, the deer plunged into it. I imagine that some were killed by falling into the trench. When the monks arrived, they threw rocks into the trench, which made a cracking sound like ripping silk. It took a long while before we heard the rocks drop to the bottom, which caused the deer to cry and wail even more without stopping.¹⁰ I proceeded west from here to where the rocky ridge is split. The peak also gradually descends. To the northwest, I looked off at Wild Goose Lake, which, farther into the distance, descends even more. Twenty years ago, when I explored Wild Goose Lake and looked for the lofty peak toward the east, a steep wall blocked the trail.¹¹ This is the place where we hung a rope and descended.¹² Previously, I had gotten through from the west side of that wall. Today, I came out above it from the east. So now I have no regrets whatsoever! Backtracked and descended to Cloudy Calm Retreat. Following a stream, I reached the area above the Big Dragon Splash Pool, where I looked down at the Dragon Pool below. Circling, turning, and hemming in among the cliffs, the water curls through a wall and plummets into the pool, leaping up and then sending down a spray. The sunlight was so fantastic that one could not stare at it. Next, I passed a stream, ascended west, and came out at the wall directly opposite the Dragon Splash Pool. Transited through two peaks and then headed south. Their ridges are east of Rock Gate and west of Arhat Monastery. Where I came out to the south forms Hibiscus Peak. Where one descends farther south forms East Ridge. Hibiscus Peak, round and extended, standing prominently erect, is in the southwestern corner of the Arhat Monastery. You cannot find a trail east of the monastery until you reach the area below it. By the time the sun had set in the west, Zhongzhao had already arrived.

Fifth day [22 June]: I bid farewell to Recumbent Cloud and left the Arhat Monastery. Following a stream for one li, I reached the mouth of the stream at the Big Dragon Splash Pool. In all, I covered four more li. Passed by Horse Saddle Ridge and then descended. To the north, I gazed below Avalokiteśvara Peak, where a breach in the rockface resembles a gate. It is tiered and aligned, and no part of it is the same. Zhongzhao had already headed off toward Numinous Crag, so I took the servant boy, proceeded north, and reached the area below the crag. Following a woodcutter’s trail, I turned west and proceeded two li directly to the base of Avalokiteśvara and Constant Cloud Peaks. Only then did I realize that although the two peaks tower far apart on top, their rock walls link below and extend like a city wall. Next, following a cliff, I climbed for about one li to the east and came out above the rockface breach, where groves of trees are dense and shady, so I could not glimpse the scene. Rocky slabs on the edges of the cliffs seemed like canopies. On top, they are flat like a whetstone; on the bottom, they are hollow on all four sides. I sat down on one for a long time. Next, I descended and went inside it, following the rockface breach. The tiered crags jut out and are cracked, so I could grope through them all. Beyond the breach, a solitary peak rises prominently, diffuse and flat, like a stretch of clouds. With its round summit and folded flanks, it is as lofty as Venerable Monk Cliff and as rigid as a child standing respectfully with palms clasped together.

I came out to a corner of the trail where many people from the Wu family lived. Among them was one Wu Yingyue, who invited me to stay for a meal. I convinced him to accompany me, so we headed up the stream in Wu Family Hollow [Wujia Keng] between Iron Plank Barrier and Avalokitesvara Peak, which I had gazed down at from the Ultimate Summit. I wanted to ascend to the tiered Yellow Cliff Caverns [Huangya Dong] on the stream’s left side. Its cliffs are west of Iron Plank Barrier; the caverns are left of the cliff. They seemed to be on two levels, one above and one below. I reached the lower level but could not ascend. When you come out above it, the cavern is between overhanging cliffs, so there was no way to get down to it. So following the cliff, I proceeded east, where I found another rockface breach. Gazing at the top of it, I saw it had several layers into which one could go. But I figured it was impossible to climb up there without putting up timbers to serve as a ladder. I descended to a small peak called Warbler Beak Crag [Yingzui Yan], where I bid farewell to Wu Yingyue.

To the east, I passed below the Iron Plank Barrier, where inside, I saw a rockface breach that was even bigger than the others. Below, it seemed as if water had flowed out from the cavern and formed a stream. Hastily, I proceeded against the current and went inside. When I reached the bottom of the cavern, jumbled rocks blocked the way, but to the left of the cliff, there was a trail that went straight up. Notches had been chiseled into the overhanging cliff wall, where dangling vines could be used to pull oneself up. So I mustered my courage and bravely ascended. I took them off when my clothes hindered my progress; when my walking stick hindered my progress, I set it aside. I directly ascended the cliff, then transited to another cliff, then repeated this sequence. Next I did the same where a plank walkway was fashioned into a bridge. I then went inside the rockface breach. The rock walls faced each other like a gate. It was broad and expansive, and I found tiered stairs that allowed one to ascend. Next, I went into two more rock gates and looked above them, where the walls ring around and stand upright. A single frame of blue sky stood poised inside it. When I looked up, the view seemed like that from inside a well. I made my way into the cavern where the walls end. I found a wooden ladder at the bottom of the cavern, where sunlight penetrates. Like a gibbon, I nimbly climbed to the top, which seemed like I was ascending a storied building. From the “building,” I turned left and came to a flat, large mound behind Iron Plank Barrier. Towering on high and aligned to the east and west, its precipitous cliffs ring around and make a circuit. To the south, it faces a rockface breach that descends and cowers, which is spacious and bright and turns and merges. Truly, this is the abode of transcendent spirits! Inside the breach is a single thatch grass dwelling, empty with no one living there. Along the cracks in the ground are many tea bushes. Thus, ladders are placed into notches in the rockface so the tea-pickers can come and go among the cracks. I descended and reached the side of a stream where people were living. Next, I crossed Little Shears Peak and proceeded east for two li. I met up with Zhongzhao after I went down to Numinous Cliff Monastery.

Sixth day [23 June]: I convinced a monk at Numinous Cliff Monastery to make a sightseeing trip with me to Sunglow Clouds Screen Barrier. We clambered up to the top of a rocky crag on the right side of Dragon Snout Cavern [Longbi Dong] for one-half li and came to a quite extraordinary cavern. Ascended another half li to where the cliff ends, and the trail disappears. There was a ladder leaning against the edge of the cliff. Presumably, it was left by the charcoal burners.¹³ We scaled the ladder and emerged atop the cliff, where three huge rocks spanned between two cliffs. These are covered by another rock, forming a chamber. The rocks that cut across and beyond form Transcendent Bridge. Its chamber is hollow, bright, impressive, spacious, and hidden on the flank amid overlapping crags. Although it is neither as extraordinary and exceptional nor as concentrated and massed as Iron Plank Barrier and Rock Bridge, its sublime profoundness creates an entirely new world. Next, we made our way through and ascended to the left side of the cavern. We clambered by pulling ourselves up on vines, then transiting over plank walkways. In due course, we came out on the middle level of Sunglow Clouds Screen Barrier, which we presumed to be the summit of Dragon Snout Cavern. At the end of its cliff, it is broad and dry enough to build cottages. The rear barrier still ascends to nestle against the Milky Way. Right of the wall is a crag rock that covers it. A waterfall descends in front of the barrier. From the right, we clambered, ascended through the cliff’s rocks, and almost reached the barrier’s summit, but the sheer rocks blocked us. On the flank of the rocks and to the right is a gap as narrow as a thread, covered and enclosed by plants and trees, on which one can place one’s foot. So we followed through the gap and descended. Between the cliffs are many long vines and hanging creepers, some of which I gathered and took with me. Whenever the rockface was sheer and could not accommodate any trees, or when the trees disappeared, and there was nowhere to accommodate my sandals, invariably, I would dangle some vines to make my descent. It was like this as we crossed five rocky ridges to the west.

We descended and ascended continuously for several li. Only then did we drop to a place that overlooks an inaccessible mountain stream. This is the upper reaches of the Little Dragon Splash Pool. Its source comes out from the summit of Wild Goose in the southeast. On the right is Iron Plank; on the left is Sunglow Clouds Screen Barrier. The interior of the two barriers drops down to form an inaccessible gulch where overlapping cliffs wane and hide, and above and below, there are no footpaths, so without hanging down a rope, one cannot bridge across. Next, we went into the gulch, stepped over rocks, followed the current, and proceeded east for about one li. A huge rock spans across and sits in the middle of the gulch. The stream water could not get by it, so it pounded against openings through the rocks below the huge one. The sheer walls on both sides are steep and erect, while the traveler’s trail disappears. So we tied some tree branches together and made a bridge, on which we ascended to the end of the cliff wall. Next, we went down a rope to the stream’s lower reaches in the front part of the gulch, where below the huge spanning rocks, I could see it was domed and so hollow that a banner pole ten rods high could stand like a tree inside it. The water behind the rock creates channels that surge, converging into pools overflowing their deep blue water. The water’s carefree movement calms the mind. On the left and right are two precipices, both of which have caverns towering aloft. Up ahead is the place where the Dragon Splash Pool tumbles down. Twice before, when I had searched for Sword Spring, the monastery monks would invariably say, “It is above the Dragon Splash Pool; rare is the person strong enough to reach there.” It was still nowhere in sight, so I realized it had disappeared long ago. I wanted to move across from here and descend to two peaks to reach some rocky chambers from Transcendent’s Bridge [Xianqiao]. So we chopped some tree branches and bound them together to make a bridge. Then we wound our way through steep hills, four in number, and looked down and saw the peaks of Lone Elegance and Double Simurghs, close to the soles of our sandals as we closed in on Transcendent’s Bridge. The middle of the opposite precipice had broken off. The sun had already set in the west, and I was exhausted, so we backtracked and looked for our earlier way. Next, we passed through some rocky chambers on the flank of Sunglow Clouds Screen Barrier and backtracked to the monastery. After we picked up our bags, we continued. Passed Vimalakīrti Monastery and put up for the night at Numinous Peak Monastery.

Seventh day [24 June]: Traced the stream before the monastery, where I observed Azure Empyrean Knoll [Bixiao Gang] to the south, which is spacious and bright but otherwise unextraordinary. Proceeded three more li, turned west, and gazed upon True Crossing Monastery in a col north of the stream. This stream approaches from steep precipices and collapsed gorges in the west. The peak south of the gorge forms Five Horses Heavenward [Wuma Chaotian], which is exceptionally sheer and steep. On the two sides of the peak are narrow and cramped stone footpaths, along which no one lives and where thorns and thatch grass choke the trail. Proceeded for about one li, which was quite arduous. I could not get through the entire length of the gorge. To the north passed True Crossing Monastery. The monastery is secluded, occupying a place in the north valley. Sightseers do not go there.

From the right of the monastery, I traced a small stream for three li, then climbed Ma Family Mountain Ridge [Majia Shanling]. The trail is quite steep. Climbed to the apex, where I observed the summit of Mount Yandang, which angles and clusters in the shape of a lotus flower. To the north, I looked down at South Postern, which was already under my straw sandals. I swiftly descended in my flying shoes for more than four li and came to New Retreat [Xin’an]. I stowed my shoulder pole and load in the retreat and followed South Postern Stream to explore the peaks north of Mount Yandang. South Postern Stream originates at Ruoniao Ridge [Ruoniao Ling] northwest of Mount Yandang, which is more than thirty li from here, at the boundary of Yongjia County.¹⁴ One can reach Furong and pass into Yueqing County by proceeding south from the ridge.¹⁵ Proceeding west from the ridge, one can move to Fenglin and then down the road to Ou Commandery [Oujun].¹⁶ South of the stream is the north side of Mount Yandang, where the mountain topography is tiered and extended, and bamboo and trees are lush and luxuriant: nothing like the sheer and sharp mountains on the south side. The large mountains to the north that twist and twine as they approach from Ruoniao Ridge all have tiered precipices and odd-looking peaks, changing and altering, closing and opening, and vying with clouds and mists in their illusory qualities. These end when they reach South Postern. Another stream to the north of the mountains approaches from North Postern [Beige] and merges with the one here; together, they descend east to Rock Gate Pool [Shimen Tan]. Inside the gate is a thousand acres of level farmland. All the people living there use the rock gate as the “door and window” to their homes. This is the source of the name “postern.” The stream demarcates the directions of north and south. When you go in from the west, South Postern hosts the residence of Zhang Lun (1413–84) and such surpassing scenic sites as Stone Buddha Cavern [Shifo Dong], Sprinkling Water Cliff [Sanshui Yan], and Cavern Transcendent Cliff [Dongxian Yan].¹⁷ North Postern hosts the former site of White Cliff Monastery [Baiyan Si]. Farther west is Wang Zijin’s Transcendent Bridge [Wang Zijin Xianqiao], which is especially extraordinary.¹⁸

Braving the rain, I thoroughly probed South Postern. First I passed Gongyi’s residence near the thriving community of his clan. I then traced the stream for five li and passed Plowshare Retreat [Liyou An]. To the south is Stone Buddha Cavern. But I could not go inside because the trail was overgrown with weeds. Proceeded forty li and reached Zhuang Col [Zhuangwu]. The people on both sides of the stream are all surnamed Ye. Sprinkling Water Cliff is located inside the north col. Its rocky precipice extends crosswise, from which a flying waterfall seemingly hangs in midair before it pours down. There is a small retreat where you climb the ridge on the left of the cliff. It was raining at sunset, so the locals put me up for the night at Zhuang Col, where they told me all about the surpassing sights at Cavern Transcendent Cloister [Dongxian Yuan].

Eighth day [25 June]: The rain still had not stopped. Tracing a stream west, I proceeded three li to where mountain ravines become more secluded. Following the stream, I turned and then headed west. Proceeded another two li. On the opposite side of the stream is a small footpath amid scattered clouds into which I entered, climbing some stone steps. Crossed the stream to the east and followed the footpath. Suddenly, the peak whirled, and the stream turned. I passed deeply into a valley with misty tors scattered and jumbled. The peaks stretch continuously from behind Zhuang Col to here, where another rocky crevice opens to display a magnificent and extraordinary scene. I stopped a local and asked him about it. He said, “As it turns out, this is Little Zuancuo [Xiao Zuancuo].¹⁹ Cavern Transcendent Cloister still lies beyond it, along the upper reaches of Big Stream.” Next, I departed and crossed the stream, proceeding for about one li. There is another stream that approaches from the east and joins this one. This is Cavern Transcendent Col Stream [Dongxian Wuxi]. Crossed Big Stream, then traced a smaller stream east and ascended, where peaked tors and thatch grass cottages were no different from those I saw earlier. Cavern Transcendent Cloister is right inside a precipice, nestling against a peak, facing north and covered by dense bamboo. Next, I broke through some brush and went into the cavern by going up a rocky crevice. At first, it was pretty narrow, but at the very top, it gradually became more expansive. As before, we came out at Zhuang Col and, to the east, returned to Ploughshare Retreat. Ultimately, I failed to find the trail to Stone Buddha Cavern. In due course, I came out and then passed South Postern. Paid a visit to Wang Zijin’s Transcendent Bridge, which is at the base of North Postern, still some twenty li away. I remembered that Zhongzhao was at New Retreat, which is close by, so I returned there to meet up with him. It was already late afternoon, so there was no time to go sightseeing in North Postern. I then returned to the east, hastening back to Big Thistle Relay Station.

—Translated by James M. Hargett

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Source: “You Yandang Shan riji hou” (YJJZ, 1:117–26; YJ, 1:74–82).

1. 1  Huangyan County (modern Huangyan Qu, Zhejiang) is about 36 mi/58 km north of Mount Yandang.

2. 2  Modern Yueqing Shi, Zhejiang.

3. 3  Xu returned to the Numinous Cliff Monastery to fetch the ladder mentioned in the next line.

4. 4  Mount Yanzi, far to the west in Gansu, was believed to be the place where the sun sets.

5. 5  As mentioned earlier, the culms of square bamboo have flat sides and rounded corners, giving them an almost square shape. They were often used to make walking sticks.

6. 6  The reference here is to a well-known story in Buddhist folklore about a statue in a monastery on Mount Emei in Sichuan. After the statue was shattered during a violent storm, the head of the statue supposedly flew to a place near Hangzhou called the Peak That Flew Hither.

7. 7  A tomb hall (mutang) is a family ancestral hall where tablets or plaques are placed to commemorate deceased family members. Family members visited the hall to pay their respects and perform traditional rituals to honor their ancestors.

8. 8  A “postern” (ge) is a secondary gate in a city wall. In reference to place-names on Mount Yandang, “postern” could thus also be translated as “gateway.”

9. 9  Cannas, sometimes called the “canna lily,” is an invasive plant species native to many tropical and subtropical areas around the globe. Xu Xiake argues that the banana plants he saw on Mount Yandang grow in thickets, just like cannas in Fujian.

10. 10  Such behavior is atypical for Buddhist monks, who almost always strive to show compassion toward all living creatures.

11. 11  “Lofty peak” probably refers to the ultimate summit of Mount Yandang.

12. 12  This incident is described in Xu’s first Mount Yandang diary.

13. 13  “Charcoal burners” (shaotanzhe) are workers who engage in the ancient practice of making wood charcoal. After the necessary wood is gathered, it is burned in a charcoal pit. The process is labor intensive, taking anywhere from ten to fourteen days to convert approximately 9 lbs/4 kg of chopped wood into 2 lbs/1kg of charcoal.

14. 14  Yongjia County fell under the jurisdiction of Wenzhou Prefecture.

15. 15  According to YJJZ, 1:126n21, Furong corresponds to modern Furong in Zhejiang, north of today’s Yueqing Shi.

16. 16  According to YHJZ, 1:126n22, Fenglin was in the northern part of Yongjia County, on the eastern bank of Lingshui Stream [Lingshui Xi]. Since Wenzhou Prefecture was situated on the southern bank of the Ou River [Oujiang], sometimes—as we see here—it was also called “Ou Commandery.”

17. 17  After passing the jinshi examination in 1439, Zhang Lun served in several government offices in the capital. But after twenty years of service with no significant advancement in his career, Zhang retired to his home in Yueqing County, where he spent his time exploring attractive landscapes and composing poetry. After his death, Zhang Lun was honored with the posthumous title “Revered and Resolute” (Gongyi).

18. 18  Wang Zijin is a transcendent who supposedly landed on Mount Yandang while riding on a crane and playing a bamboo flute. The bridge mentioned here, named in his honor, is a natural rock bridge that measures about 328 ft/100 m in length and 65 ft/20 m in width.

19. 19  The term Zuancuo 纂厝 appears to be a regional or dialect expression. Its meaning is uncertain.