[SPRING 1623, XIANGYANG PREFECTURE, JUN SUBPREFECTURE, HU-GUANG]

Taihe (lit., “Grand Harmony”) is an alternate name for what today is better known as Mount Wudang [Wudang Shan], a small mountain range southwest of modern Jun Xian in Hubei. It is best known for its association with Daoist religious traditions, specifically, the mountain’s connection with the deity known as the Perfected Warrior (Zhenwu; also known as Xuanwu, or “Arcane Warrior”), who supposedly cultivated and achieved the Way (Dao) there, after which he then wielded magical and super-human powers. The more popular name for the mountain today, Wudang, literally means “martially worthy” and refers to the capability of the Perfected Warrior to reign as the patron Daoist god on the mountain and protect it from all forms of evil. During the reign of Ming dynasty emperor Yongle (r. 1402–24), the mountain received exceptional honors and lavish patronage because of the imperial family’s interest in Daoism. During the Jiajing reign, by imperial decree, the mountain was officially conferred the title Prime Sacred Mountain [Yuanyue] to distinguish and elevate it above China’s other sacred heights. Not surprisingly, the extensive Daoist monastic complex on Mount Taihe receives much attention in Xu Xiake’s diary. But this was not because of any interest in Daoism on his part; most of the Daoist palaces and abbeys he mentions serve as guideposts to lead the reader along his itinerary in search of surpassing scenic wonders.

[Third month,] eleventh day [10 April 1623]: I climbed to Transcendent Gibbon Ridge [Xianyuan Ling]. After ten-some li, I came to a dried-up stream bed with a small bridge, which falls within the boundary of Yun County.¹ This place marks the border between Henan and Hu-Guang. I proceeded east for five li and came to a pond called Blue Spring [Qingquan]. I could not spot its source above me, but the spring whooshed and swooshed as it flowed down. This area is also subordinate to Xichuan County.² Presumably, the boundary between the two counties crisscrosses back and forth across the trail. I held close to a mountain stream, twisting and crooking my way forward. This is the reason the trail makes its way through the two counties. Proceeded five li and crossed a small ridge, which still falls within the boundary of Yun County. Below the ridge are Jade Emperor Abbey [Yuhuang Guan] and Dragon Pool Monastery [Longtan Si]. A stream, swelling and surging, runs from southwest to northeast. Presumably, it comes from Yun County. I crossed the stream and, to the south, ascended Nine Li Knoll [Jiuli Gang]. After passing over its crest, I descended to Twisted Peach Tree Ridge [Pantao Ling]. Then, against the stream’s current, proceeded for ten li through a col and reached Kudzu Nine Gully [Gejiu Gou]. Proceeded another ten li and climbed to Earthen Ridge [Tudi Ling]. The area south of the ridge falls within the boundary of Jun Subprefecture. From here on, I passed over mountain ridges, one after the other, through a riotous profusion of peach and plum blossoms. Mountain flowers along both sides of the trail were serene, seductive, and extraordinary. Inside a mountain col, cottages gazed across at one another. Along the stream’s course, rice paddy plots descend from above in ranks like fish scales, different from those in Shanxi and Shaanxi. But the footpath along my route was narrow, and travelers were scarce. Moreover, I heard the tigers hereabouts are savage. Since the sun was setting in the west, I eventually stopped inside a col at Cao Family Inn [Caojia Dian].

Twelfth day [11 April]: I proceeded five li and ascended to Fiery Red Dragon Ridge [Huolong Ling]. Descended the ridge, followed a stream, and emerged from a gorge. Proceeded forty li and descended to Path Top Knoll [Xingtou Gang]. Proceeded fifteen li and reached Rouge Powder Crossing [Hongfen Du], where the Han River vigorously approaches from the west.³ Below the shore, a gray-green cliff wall overhangs seemingly in midair while the river’s clear current coils around its face. Following the Han River, I next proceeded east and reached Jun Subprefecture. Serene Happiness Palace [Jingle Gong] is inside the subprefectural seat. Its design and layout, reaching halfway across the city, are magnificent and orderly. I stored my luggage outside the south city wall and finalized plans to climb the mountain at dawn the next day.

Thirteenth day [12 April]: On horseback, I hastened south along a stone-paved road that is flat and broad. Proceeded thirty li, crossed a rock bridge, and came to a stream that surged west to east. This is where the stream from the base of Mount Taihe flows into the Han River. Crossed the rock bridge and came to Welcoming Grace Palace [Ying’en Gong], which faces west. In front of the palace is a stele with “Number One Mountain” (Diyi Shan) written in three giant Chinese characters. As it turns out, these characters are from the brush of Mi Xiangyang [1051–1107].⁴ His calligraphy is soaring and vigorous and should indeed be regarded as “Number One.” Proceeded another ten li and passed Rustic Inn [Caodian]. When the road from Xiangyang Prefecture reaches here, it joins with this one. Then it gradually heads west, passes Meet with Truth Palace [Yuzhen Gong], crosses below two defiles, and passes into a col. From here, I proceeded west for several li, hastening along the road to Jade Vacuity Palace [Yuxu Gong]. I then traversed and ascended a ridge to the south. This shortcut runs to Purple Empyrean Palace [Zixiao Gong]. I next climbed a ridge. It is altogether ten li from Rustic Inn to here, leading to Coiling Dragon Abbey [Huilong Guan]. I gazed at the sacred mountain’s summit,⁵ green and purple, poking into the sky. But I was still fifty li away. Tall trees fill the mountains along both sides of the trail, densely spread above and below. It seemed like I was passing under a green canopy.

I proceeded on from there, following the edge of the mountain. Descended and ascended for altogether twenty li, passing Crown Prince Slope [Taizi Po]. Next, I descended into a col and came to a rock bridge that straddles a stream. This is the lower reaches of Nine Crossings Stream [Jiudu Jian]. Above it is the Eighteen Turns of Flat Terrace [Pingtai Shiba Pan], which is the main trail running to Purple Empyrean Palace and from there to climbing Mount Taihe. I turned left and entered the mountain following a stream, which took me upstream along Nine Crossings Stream. These trails head toward Rose Gem Terrace Abbey [Qiongtai Guan] and Master Luo’s Cloister of Eight Transcendents [Baxian Luogong Yuan]. I climbed steeply for ten li to Purple Empyrean Palace. The front of the palace overlooks Yu’s Footprint Pond [Yuji Chi]; in the back, it nestles against Unfurled Banner Peak. The palace’s tiered terraces and outstanding ceremonial halls are lofty, roomy, and unusual. I went into a ceremonial hall to express reverence and respect, then ascended steps from the right side of the ceremonial hall directly to the west side of Unfurled Banner Peak. On the side of the peak are Crown Prince Cavern [Taizi Dong] and Seven Stars Cliff, but there was no time to ask about them. I proceeded for altogether five li and passed Southern Sky Gate [Nantian Men] at South Cliff [Nanyan]. I ignored it and headed west. I crossed a ridge and paid my respects at Betel Palm Transcendent Shrine [Langxian Ci]. The shrine stands facing South Cliff. In front of the shrine is a vast betel tree without a single inch of bark. Standing bare and parched, it towers aloft. Its slender buds had not yet opened. Beside it are numerous betel plum (langmei) trees that stand tall and towering.⁶ The deepness of their blossoms’ color resembles those of peach and apricot trees; their stems hang down like silk strands, forming the shape of crab apple blossoms. Plum and betel palm originally were two species of mountain tree. According to legend, the Arcane Emperor grafted a plum branch onto a betel palm tree, which then bonded with the plum, producing this distinct species, or so it is said.

Altogether, I proceeded five li and passed Tiger Head Cliff [Hutou Yan]. Proceeded another three li and reached Slanted Bridge [Xieqiao]. Projecting peaks and overhanging cliffs appeared time and time again. The footpaths mostly follow peaks above the crevices. Proceeded five li and reached Third Heaven’s Gate [Santian Men] and passed Heavenward Palace [Chaotian Gong], from each of which are stone steps that zigzag as they mount upward. On both sides of the trail are iron posts with hanging cables. From Third Heaven’s Gate, Second Heaven’s Gate [Ertian Men], and First Heaven’s Gate [Yitian Men], for the most part, I took the footpath through the peaks and chasms, where the steps seemed to be poised in midair as they went straight up. Although the way was steep and sheer, the stone steps are not only in good condition; the railings and cables are coupled and linked, unlike those at Mount Hua, where travelers seem to almost hang aloft in midair flight. Grand Harmony Palace [Taihe Gong] is inside Third Heaven’s Gate. It was late afternoon, so I did my utmost to reach the Golden Summit [Jinding]. This is the so-called Celestial Pillar Peak. A mass of peaks on the mountain’s summit, all of which look like inverted bells and standing tripod cauldrons, aligned and assembled, stand in formation. Celestial Pillar is poised among them. Alone, it emerges beyond the massed peaks. Its four sides are steep and sheer. The peak’s summit has a level spot, across and athwart, but only reaching eight feet across. Golden Ceremonial Hall [Jindian] towers above it. Offerings are made inside it to the Arcane Emperor and Four Generals (Sijiang).⁷ The incense burner and worshipping table are both neatly arranged and made of gold. The hall is supervised by a thousand households [qianhu] official and a superintendent (tidian), who demanded incense and gold. This is nothing less than imperial extortion.⁸ I went in, intending to kowtow hastily and hurriedly, but by then, the gate was already closed. So I descended and spent the night at Grand Harmony Palace.

Fourteenth day [13 April]: I changed clothes and ascended to the Golden Summit. After I looked up with reverence and then kowtowed, the heavenly precincts turned clear and bright. Looking down at the various peaks, those nearby stand erect like swans; those in the distance spread and stretch out. Indeed, this is a profound place untouched by man! So I descended into a gorge from a small footpath to the right of Third Heaven’s Gate. The footpath has no stone stairs or cables. As the trail passes through them, the jumbled peaks stand side-by-side. How they stretched into the distance inspired the feeling that this was a secluded, surpassing scene. After more than three li, I reached the right side of Candle Peak [Lazhu Feng], where a mountain spring lapped lazily, brimming beside the trail. Then descended to Candle Ravine [Lazhu Jian]. Following the right side of the gorge, I proceeded for over three li. As the direction of the mountains turned, the peaks followed them. Below, I saw a flat hill with an open area on top. This is Upper Rose Gem Terrace Abbey [Shang Qiongtai Guan]. Next to it are several betel plum trees, all so big it would take outstretched arms to embrace them. The tint of their flowers floated in the sky and reflected off the mountains; their exquisiteness and elegance reached the limits of the cliffs. This place is not only secluded and sheer; the scenes here are also unusual and different.

One fascinating aspect of Xu Xiake’s diaries is his conversations with people he met during his travels. Here, he engages a Daoist adept to beg a favor.

When I beseeched him for some betel plum fruit, the Daoist adept in the abbey fell silent, not daring to respond. Afterward, he said, “These have always been forbidden objects. In the past, a person took three or four of them. As a result, several of the Daoists involved became implicated in legal cases that ruined their families.” I did not believe the story and asked again with more vigor. He then came out and presented me with several, all already black and spoiled. Moreover, we agreed that I would not let anyone else know about this.⁹ Later, after I had hastened to Central Rose Gem Terrace [Zhong Qiongtai], I beseeched the Daoists there for more betel plum fruit. The master of the abbey politely declined, saying he had none.

If I left Lower Rose Gem Terrace [Xia Qiongtai], I could go to Jade Vacuity Cliff [Yukong Yan], but then I would miss South Cliff and Purple Empyrean. But what is the point of getting to one place and missing two? This would not be as good as ascending by way of my former footpath and then crossing Candle Peak on the left. This should take me relatively closer to South Cliff. But just then, someone came chasing after me and shouting. It was a young yellow cap from Central Rose Gem Terrace with a summons from the abbot urging me to return to the abbey.¹⁰ The master of the abbey took my hand and said, “The gentleman earnestly asked for the precious fruit. Fortunately, I have two. In a small way, they will satisfy the gentleman’s desire. But severe punishment will immediately follow if word of this should leak out to others.” When I got outside and looked at them, they were shaped like kumquat candied in honey, with the appearance of gold and the consistency of jade. This is no ordinary product. I expressed heartfelt thanks to the master and took my leave.

Next, I ascended for over three li, going directly into a col on Candle Peak, where the peaks are spiky and spiny, piercing and pointy. As I crossed the col, my shadow wobbled and wavered as if the mountain peaks seemed to be shaking. After I got through the col, I followed steep cliffs, twisting and twining, successively crossing over several of them. As they conform with the terrain, the earth and rocks on the tops of the peaks appear in different colors. Later, I heard a Buddhist chant. Then, looking up at the peak’s summit, dim and distant, ascending and overhanging above, I had already come out on the right of Heavenward Palace. I ascended for eight li and reached Southern Sky Gate at South Cliff. I hastened on to pay my respects in the main ceremonial hall. I turned right and went into the rear of the hall, where high, steep cliffs are recessed into the sky, like overhanging corridors and covered trails, wiggling and writhing over the mid-point of the mountain. The area it overlooks below is boundless. This is known as South Cliff. It is also named Purple Empyrean Cliff and is the most outstanding among the mountain’s thirty-six cliffs.¹¹ Celestial Pillar Cliff directly faces it. From the cliff, I returned to the left of the ceremonial hall, then transited along some stairs into a col. Its pine and conifer trees have trunks measuring several arm spans in girth. The continuous shade they provide is exquisite. A layered terrace hangs down alone. Its lofty peak looks off into the distance in all four directions. This is known as Flying and Rising Terrace [Feisheng Tai]. At sunset, I backtracked to the palace, where I bribed a young disciple to get me six more betel plum fruits. I asked him to search for more the next day but got none.

In the following entry, Xu Xiake engages the services of litter bearers (yuzhe). Litter bearers are still active in China, especially in scenic mountain areas. The litter used by these sure-footed porters essentially comprised a basket-like chair mounted along the length of two poles, which would be carried by two bearers, one in front and another behind.

Fifteenth day [14 April]: I hastened to Thunder God Cavern [Leigong Dong] from the left side of Southern Sky Gate. The cavern seems poised in midair among cliffs. I wanted to backtrack to Purple Empyrean Cliff, then from Crown Prince Crag (Taizi Yan) transit to Not Two Retreat [Bu’er An] and reach Five Dragons Palace [Wulong Gong]. The litter bearers said that it is a roundabout route and inconvenient, and it would be better to descend from South Cliff to Bamboo Fence Bridge [Zhuba Qiao], where one can survey the surpassing scenery at Dripping Water Cave [Dishui Yan] and Transcendent Couple Cave [Xianlü Yan]. So I descended from North Sky Gate [Beitian Men], where the entire footpath is shaded by forest. Dripping Water and Transcendent Caves are on the left side of the trail. These soaring caves rise abruptly; spring water drips down inside them. Embedded in the caves are openings that serve as chambers. In each chamber are shrines dedicated to the Perfected Warrior. I reached Bamboo Fence Bridge and could only hear the flowing waterfall. But there was no way to follow the stream. So holding close to a mountain, I crossed a ridge. Along the trail are many jutting rocks and dangerous cliffs interlaced with jumbled vegetation and clumped lush greenery, with betel plum blossoms casting dazzling colors far and near.

I passed White Cloud [Baiyun] and Transcendent Tortoise [Xiangui] Cliffs, covering twenty-some li altogether. Then I took the steps straight down to the base of a canyon and reached Dark Sheep Bridge [Qingyang Qiao]. The water in the canyon is the lower reaches of the water that flows down from Bamboo Fence Bridge. Thick vegetation on the two cliffs hides the sun; the clear current of the stream winds and meanders. The bridge spans above it. I do not know where it flows to. When I looked up at the blue beyond, it seemed as if I was peeping through the spout of an earthenware jar.¹² I crossed the bridge and ascended directly to Crowded Sky Ridge [Zantian Ling]; after five more li, I reached Five Dragons Palace. Its design and layout are much like Purple Empyrean Palace on South Cliff. Behind the ceremonial hall, I climbed up a mountain for about one li, then turned into a col and came to Nature’s Retreat [Ziran An]. After returning to the ceremonial hall’s right side, I left the path and descended into a col. Proceeded two li and came to Rising into Vacuity Cave [Lingxu Yan]. The cave nestles against layered tors and overlooks an inaccessible gulch facing the mountains of Peach Source Cavern [Taoyuan Dong]. Its fine trees are especially deep and thick-set. Their purple, lush green colors reflect off each other like a painting. This is the spot where Xiyi practiced quietude.¹³ In front is Transmitting Scriptures Terrace [Chuanjing Tai], which alone looks down into the gulch and can rival Flying and Rising Terrace. I returned and passed to the left of the ceremonial hall, then climbed to Betel Plum Terrace [Langmei Tai] and immediately descended the mountain to Cao Family Inn.

All four sides of Mount Hua are rocky cliff walls. Thus, the feet of the peaks lack trees with tall branches and unusual trunks. Straight to the peak’s summit, most pine and cypress trees measure the outstretched arms of three people in girth. The pines are all five-pronged, with nuts as big as lotus seeds. Among them were some that had not yet fallen to the ground, so I picked and ate some. They were fresh, sweet-smelling, and truly outstanding.

Mount Taihe is enclosed and embraced by mountains on all four sides. Everywhere within one hundred li are thick-set trees and outspread forests, which hide the sun and reach into the sky. When you get within several scores of li of the nearby mountains, the unusual conifers and old cypresses measure the embrace of three people in girth and connect continuously inside the mountains’ cols. Presumably, the state prohibits their harvesting.

As for Mount Song and Lesser Song, woodcutters have chopped down trees from the flat foothills to the ultimate summit until nothing remains.¹⁴ Only the trees of the Three Generals stand majestically and prominently, and that is all. The mountains, valleys, rivers, and plains have the same climate but different weather. I saw green wheat fields only after I left Mount Song and Lesser Song. When I reached Shaan Subprefecture, the apricot blossoms were starting to bloom, while the color of the willow trees gently and gracefully greeted the traveler. When I entered Tong Pass, the relay station road not only became level but there were hanging willows along both sides of the road, as well as pear and plum trees here and there. When I turned into Deep Valley [Hongyu], ice layers and snow piles still filled the canyons and valleys. Indeed, this is a place where the spring wind does not blow. I saw apricot blossoms again when I passed Col Bottom Fork [Wudi Cha]. Peach rains and willow mist were everywhere when I left Dragon Colt Stronghold [Longju Zhai]. I suddenly remembered that today is the Clear and Bright Festival (Qingming Jie), which could not help but strike a chord in my heart.¹⁵ I thereupon departed from Rustic Inn. After twenty-four days on the road, I arrived home on the day after Bathing the Buddha.¹⁶ I presented the betel plum fruit from Mount Taihe to my mother to celebrate her longevity.

—Translated by James M. Hargett

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Source: “You Taihe Shan riji; Hu-Guang, Xiangyang fu, Junzhou” (YJJZ, 1:79–87; YJ, 1:51–55). During the Ming dynasty, there were thirteen provinces or regional administration commissions in China. Among them, Hu-Guang corresponds to what is now Hunan and Hubei. Xiangyang Prefecture is now modern Xiangyang Shi in northwestern Hubei. Jun Subprefecture corresponds to modern Jun Xian, just north of Mount Taihe.

1. 1  Yun was a county in Yunyang Prefecture, northwestern Hubei.

2. 2  Xichuan County was created in 1470 and fell under the administrative jurisdiction of Nanyang Prefecture, southwest of modern Xichuan Xian in Henan.

3. 3  The Han River, a major tributary of the Changjiang, flows past Jun Sub- prefecture.

4. 4  The reference here is the famous Song dynasty painter and calligrapher Mi Fu. Xu Xiake refers to him as “Mi Xiangyang” because Xu thought he was a native of Xiangyang in Hubei. Most sources now say Mi Fu was born in Taiyuan, Shanxi.

5. 5  The mountain referenced here is Mount Taihe.

6. 6  Betel plum is a tree that produces fruit sometimes called the “Chinese hackberry” or “Chinese Euscaphis tree” in English. It is valued for its hard, durable wood and sweet fruit. According to legend, the Arcane Warrior produced the fruit through a grafting process, explained later in this diary entry. As we see below, Xu Xiake was interested in collecting fruit samples. However, he does not reveal the motivation for his interest in acquiring the fruit until the last line of the Mount Taihe diary.

7. 7  The Arcane Emperor’s quartet of generals were charged with protecting Daoist rites and protocols on the mountain.

8. 8  Xu Xiake makes a comment here about “extortion” (xusuo) because the two government officials supervising activities at the Golden Ceremonial Hall were forcing sightseers to pay an exorbitant admission fee in “incense and gold” (xiangjin).

9. 9  Li Chi says Daoists on the mountain were reluctant to part with betel plum fruit because “it was forbidden to the public, and officials were ordered to send the entire crop to Peking (Beijing) as tribute.” The Travel Diaries of Hsü Hsia-k’o, 155–56. It would then seem that interest in the capital was sparked by the fruit’s association with the Arcane Warrior.

10. 10  Xu Xiake uses the term yellow cap (huangguan) as a synonym for daoshi, or Daoist adept.

11. 11  That is to say, the thirty-six cliffs on Mount Taihe.

12. 12  In other words, Xu Xiake’s view of the sky was restricted because high cliffs and lofty peaks surrounded him.

13. 13  “Xiyi” refers to Chen Tuan (d. 989), who lived in seclusion on Mount Taihe. When he left the mountain in the early years of the Song dynasty, during the Taiping Xingguo reign (977–84), the Song Emperor Taizong (r. 960–76) honored him with the title Xiyi xiansheng (The Master Looked for, but Not Seen; Listened for, But Not Heard). Practice quietude (xijing) means “live a quiet and tranquil life away from the hubbub of the secular world.”

14. 14  That is, Greater Chambers and Lesser Chambers.

15. 15  The Clear and Bright (Qingming) Festival—sometimes called Tomb Sweeping Day in English—falls on the fifteenth day after the spring equinox, usually in early April on the Western calendar.

16. 16  Xu Xiake’s temporal reference to Bathing the Buddha (Yu Fo) is to the eighth day of the fourth lunar month when it was customary to bathe a small statue of Buddha to commemorate his birth. We know, then, that Xu Xiake arrived home in Jiangyin the following day, or 6 May 1623.