[FALL 1633, TAIYUAN PREFECTURE, WUTAI COUNTY, SHAANXI]

Mount Wutai [Wutai Shan] in Shanxi is about 240 mi/387 km southwest of Beijing. The mountain’s name is sometimes translated as Five Terraces Mountain in English because its main section comprises five flat-topped (or terraced) peaks. These terraces roughly correspond to the four cardinal directions, with a fifth Central Terrace added in the middle. In his diary entries, Xu Xiake vividly describes his ascents to the South Terrace [Nantai], Central Terrace [Zhongtai], and West Terrace [Xitai] summits. Mount Wutai has long served as China’s most revered Buddhist mountain, but Xu has little to say about its religious tradition. Instead, and as always, his main interest is visiting extraordinary and sublime landscape sites and then describing them to his readers.

Guiyou year, twenty-eighth day of the seventh month [1 September 1633]: I left the capital for a sightseeing trip to Wutai.¹ By the fourth day of the eighth month [6 September], I reached South Pass [Nanguan] in Fuping County,² where mountains approach from Tang County.³ However, the mountains became dense only after I reached the Tang River [Tanghe]. But upon reaching Huangkui,⁴ the mountains gradually begin to open out. As it turns out, the mountains here are not very dome-shaped. After crossing a rock bridge southwest of Fuping County, the various peaks again rise and fall. Following the left side of a stream, I proceeded north for eight li, where a smaller stream approached from the west, pouring into it. Next, I gave up on the bigger stream and headed upstream along the one from the west, where I then turned north. The mountain gorges gradually became more confined. After another seven li, I had a meal at Crown Prince Post Station [Taizi Pu].

Proceeded north for fifteen li and suddenly heard the sound of a running stream. I looked back at the precipice on the right, the rock wall of which rose several scores of fathoms high. In the precipice is a depression that drops straight down like a melon sliced in half. Above it is another depression from which a waterfall had once brimmed over. It has dried up because of drought, so there is no waterfall, but marks from the waterfall remain on the walls inside the depression. Two or three feet away from the mountain stream, a spring swelled and surged out of a small hole inside the depression, which formed a running stream below it.⁵ Continuing my ascent, I passed Saddle Ridge [Anzi Ling]. From the top of the ridge, mountain cols to the north are wide open. To the northeast and northwest, lofty peaks stand facing each other, like the palms of transcendents poking into the sky. The mountainous terrain only subsides to the north, where there is a gap. Beyond the gap, mountains span across in the distance. That is Dragon Spring Pass [Longquan Guan], which is still forty li from here. Below the ridge is a river that approaches from the southwest. At first, I followed it, proceeding north. A short time later, the stream disappeared into a gorge coming from the east. Next, I passed over a small ridge, where a big stream approached from the northwest.⁶ Its force was mighty. It also disappears into a gorge that comes from the southeast. This must be the one that merges with the stream from the southwest and flows out north of Fuping County. At first, when I passed Fuping County, I gave up on the big stream and proceeded west, taking it to be the one from Dragon Spring. I had no idea the western stream came from the wall of a depression on Saddle Ridge. I passed over the ridge and again encountered the upper reaches of the big stream. This big stream is the one that comes out of Dragon Spring. The stream has a rock bridge called Myriad Years [Wannian]. I crossed it. Proceeding against the current, I gazed at the lofty peak in the northwest and pressed on. After ten li, I closed in on the base of the peak, shielded by some small hills, so I could not get a full view of its jagged and craggy terrain. I turned north toward the lofty peak I had gazed at in the northeast. The more I viewed it from a distance, the more prominent it became; the more I pressed on, the more distinct it became. Its sheer and steep form seemed to be chasing me from far away.

Over the next twenty li, I grew weary from taking in all the sights. This peak is called Five Cliffs Stronghold [Wuyan Zhai]. It is also called King Wu’s Stronghold [Wuwang Zhai]. An old monk lives in a cottage on the cliff. A short time later, below a peak in the northeast, a stream spilled out and joined the big stream from Dragon Spring. The locals have built a stone bridge across it, but it does not lead to the trail to Dragon Pass. From the left of the bridge, I proceeded north for eight li until I encountered some crumbled-down cliffs rising abruptly along the banks. After another two li, I came to a double wall at the entrance to a mountain defile. This is Dragon Spring Pass.

Fifth day [7 September]: I entered South Pass and arrived at East Pass [Dongguan]. Proceeded north for ten li. Where the trail gradually ascends, the mountains gradually become more extraordinary, and the sound of the spring gradually grows faint. Not long afterward, where the steep rocky trail ends, the cliffs on both sides revealed majestic peaks and sheer walls, joined and heaped into a collective wonder. Trees and rocks in the mountains compete in their beauty, like exquisite brocades. No longer was I aware of the weariness caused by my ascent and climb. It was like this for the next five li. At a spot where the cliffs close in on each other, I came across two rocky passes, one after the other. Next, I ascended straight up for five li and climbed to the absolute summit of Great Wall Ridge [Changcheng Ling]. I gazed back at peaks in the distance, where even those of extreme height also cowered below my feet. Nearby peaks on both sides closed around protectively, with only a thread-like gap through the mountains approaching from the south, through which I could see for one hundred li.

On the ridge are majestic lofts, bold and imposing. This is the upper pass of Dragon Spring. Inside the pass is an ancient pine tree with boughs on high and luxuriant leaves. Its trunk stretching into the clouds presents an extraordinary feat of nature. West of the pass is the boundary of Wutai County in Shanxi. The downward slope from the ridge is quite level, not even one-tenth as steep as the ascent. Proceeded thirteen li and came to Old Trail Ridge [Jiulu Ling]. I was now already on level land. A stream approached from the southwest. It follows the mountains and heads off toward the northwest when it reaches here. I also followed it. After ten li, the Five Terraces River [Wutai Shui] approaches from the west to join with that stream. Together, they flowed into the Hutuo River [Hutuo Shui]. Next, I followed the northwest stream for several li and came to Celestial Pond Village [Tianchi Zhuang]. I then headed north in a col for twenty li. Passed White Head Retreat Village [Baitou An Cun], only twenty li from South Terrace. Looking at the mountain valleys, I still could not get a general idea of what South Terrace looks like. Next, I proceeded northwest for two li and came to White Cloud Monastery [Baiyun Si] on the left side of the trail. I cut south in front of the monastery, clambered and climbed for four li, then cut and ascended for three more li and reached Thousand Buddhas Cavern [Qianfo Dong], from where I climbed the trail to Mount Wutai. Next, I cut and proceeded west, reaching the mountain only after I covered three more li.

In the next entry, Xu Xiake climbs to the top of the South Terrace, where he comes across a reliquary shrine dedicated to the resident Bodhisattva of Mount Wutai, Mañjuśrī (Chinese: Wenshu).

Sixth day [8 September]: A gale began to howl. Every drop of water turned to ice. At daybreak, when the wind let up, the sun emerged like a fiery pearl surging and spewing inside a forest of verdant trees. Following along the mid-point of the mountain, I proceeded southwest for four li and passed over a ridge. Only then was the South Terrace right before me. Farther up is Lamp Monastery [Dengsi]. From here, the trail gradually becomes steeper. After another ten li, I climbed to the ultimate summit of the South Terrace, where a reliquary shrine is dedicated to Mañjuśrī.⁷ The other terraces align around its north side in a circle. Only the southeast and northwest sides have areas with a few open spaces. Below it and due south is the old South Terrace. In the distance, the mountains of Yu County stand loftily like screens, while the sheer and steep mountains to the east connect with Dragon Spring Pass.⁸ I descended from the trail on the right of the terrace. The path was smooth and thus fit for riding on horseback. Following the west ridge, I proceeded northwest for fifteen li and came to Golden Belvedere Ridge [Jin’ge Ling]. Next, following to the left of the mountain, descended to the northwest. After five li, I reached Clear and Cool Rock [Qingliang Shi]. The monastery there is secluded and gorgeous. High up and down below, it is like a painting. There is a rock there in the shape of a mushroom. Its length and width each measure nine paces. Four hundred people could stand on top of it. The rockface is flat, pointed on the underside, and barely connected to the rocks below. From the northwest, I ascended by transiting along a plank walkway and mounting a stairway for 12 li, then reached Running Horse Spring [Mapao Quan]. The spring is at the nook of a trail inside a mountain den. The gap through the rocks is only big enough for half a horse’s hoof. Water spills out through the gap. The den is also flat and spacious enough for a monastery. But Running Horse Monastery [Mapao Si] is one li distant from the flank of the spring. Next, I descended eight li on a gentle slope and spent the night in Lion Lair [Shizi Ke].

Seventh Day [9 September]: I proceeded northwest for ten li and crossed Convey to Salvation Bridge [Huadu Qiao]. A single peak descends from Central Terrace; a flowing stream whooshes and swooshes on both sides. Serene and tranquil, it disappeared into the distance. Next crossed a bridge over a mountain stream to the right of the peak. Following the mountain westward, I ascended. The trail was extremely slanted. After another ten li, I climbed to the summit of West Terrace. The nearby peaks were dazzled by sunlight, each presenting marvelous forms. On the west side, Subjugating Demons Cliff [Bimo Yan] stands nearby; in the distance is Wild Goose Gate Pass [Yanmen Guan]. They were so clear it seemed like I could lean over and pick them up. Subjugating Demons Cliff was over forty li away.

Everywhere on the mountain are steep cliffs, twisting and extending, ascending layer upon layer, which makes this place fall into the “medium extraordinary” category.⁹ I went into a shrine where one kowtows to Buddha, then immediately descended from the north side of West Terrace. After three li, I arrived at Eight Virtues Stream [Bade Shui]. North of the monastery, on the left, is Vimalakīrti Belvedere [Weimo Ge]. Beneath it are two rocks towering aloft. The belvedere is built on the two rocks. The length of its columns is uneven because they follow the irregular contours of the rocks. In some places, there are no pillars at all. Inside is Myriad Buddhas Belvedere [Wanfo Ge]. Its Buddhist statues are all painted green and gold and made of sandalwood. On display and outspread, shining and dazzling, there are no less than countless figures. In front of the belvedere are two buildings, each with three floors, which are ringed by structures that also have three floors. Double-decker passageways are constructed between them, on which people walk back and forth, seemingly in midair. Considering the hardship and danger one faces in these countless mountains, only divine powers could craft such wonders.

I proceeded northeast from the monastery for five li and reached a major trail. Then proceeded another ten li and reached Central Terrace. I gazed at the East and South Terraces, fifty or sixty li away. But Dragon Spring Pass on the periphery of South Terrace seemed to be even closer. Only West Terrace and North Terrace [Beitai] connect with Dragon Spring [see figure 9]. At that time, the breeze was fresh and the sunshine beautiful. The mountains opened and aligned tidily, like a mustache and eyebrows. I first hastened south of the terrace and climbed Dragon Somersault Rock [Fanlong Shi]. The grounds thereabouts are cluttered with countless rocks, which surge up to the top of the peak.¹⁰ The peak looks down on an inaccessible col, inside which solitary piles of rocks seem poised in midair. Someone said this is where Mañjuśrī releases light to project his image. I descended from north of the terrace for four li to where ice hung on a dark cliff for several hundreds of rods. It is called Myriad Years Ice [Wannian Bing]. Cottages have been built inside the col. When I arrived, even though it had just started to turn cold, ice and snow could be found everywhere on the terrace. I heard snow fell on the twenty-seventh day of the seventh month [31 August], just when I left the capital. After four li, I ascended north to the Bathing Pool [Zaoyu Chi].¹¹ After ascending north for another ten li, I spent the night at the North Terrace. North Terrace is relatively more precipitous than the others. As the sun had not set yet, I gazed into the distance at the scene beyond the monastery. The sun had set when I entered the sanctuary; the wind blew strongly.

Eighth day [10 September]: When the venerable monk Rocky Hall (Shitang)was seeing me off, he pointed to the mountains one by one and said:

At the foot of North Terrace, to the west of East Terrace [Dongtai], in the center of Central Terrace, and north of South Terrace, there is a col called Terraced Bend [Taiwan].¹² This is the approximate central point of the surrounding ranks of terraces. Due east and slightly north of there, where you see something green floating in the air and something pointy, that is Mount Heng.¹³ Due west and slightly south, where you see a faint trace of extended mist, that is Wild Goose Gate. Of the mountains directly south, beyond South Terrace, only Dragon Spring stands majestically alone. Directly north, looking down inside and beyond both sides of the pass, the mountains look like flower buds. Only this mountain protects the north, where it stands sheer and steep, layer upon layer, with rocky contours that jut and jag. Only here is its complete panorama revealed. This is the general scene you can survey from North Terrace. It is forty li away from East Terrace. Flowery Cliff Ridge is between them. If one plans to explore the Sacred Mountain in the North, it is better to descend from north of the ridge. This saves forty li of climbing up and down.

I nodded in agreement. I departed and proceeded east, descending on a steep slope for eight li, then descended on a flat slope for another twelve li, arriving at Flowery Rock Ridge. The ground became flat after I descended ten li from the basin’s north. One mountain stream flows from the north and another from the west. The two streams converge, where many peaks gather. One Pot of Sky [Yihu Tian] is in a deep gulch.¹⁴ Proceeded twenty li northeast along a mountain stream and arrived at Open Country Market [Yezi Chang]. Daylilies (tianhua cai)grow for several dozen li from White Head Retreat [Baitou An] in the south to here. As it turns out, the daylily is not grown anywhere after you leave here. Next came two cliffs, arrayed like screens and standing upright like a tripod cauldron. Magnificent sheer cliffs in countless similar shapes continued for the next ten li. Upon overhanging and precipitous cliffs, where multistoried belvederes rise prominently, is Poised in Midair Monastery [Xuankong Si]. The rocky cliff wall here is especially marvelous. This serves the guardian mountain beyond the North Terrace. If one fails to leave the mountain by this route, it seems that he will not be able to discover the spirit and texture of Mount Wutai, or so it is said.¹⁵

—Translated by Naixi Feng and James M. Hargett

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Source: “You Wutai Shan riji; Shanxi, Taiyuan fu, Wutai xian” (YJJZ, 1:127–32; YJ, 1:82–86).

1. 1  “Capital” refers to Beijing, which became the capital of the Ming dynasty in 1421. Xu Xiake had spent time there before his trip to Mount Wutai.

2. 2  Modern Fuping Xian, Hebei.

3. 3  Modern Tang Xian, Hebei.

4. 4  Huangkui corresponds to modern Wangkuai Zhen in Hebei.

5. 5  “Mountain stream” (jian) presumably refers to the stream Xu Xiake heard just before he “looked back at the precipice on the right.”

6. 6  According to YJJZ, 1:131n8, the “big stream” mentioned here and several times below refers to a waterway called the Sand River [Shahe] during the Ming. Today, it is called the Greater Sand River [Da Shahe].

7. 7  The faithful believe that Mañjuśrī sometimes appears on the mountain as a pilgrim, monk, or even a penta-colored cloud, but only devout followers may see him.

8. 8  Yu County corresponds to modern Yu Xian, Shanxi.

9. 9  This comment reveals that Xu Xiake had a ranking system for evaluating a landscape’s visual appeal. “Medium extraordinary” (zhongqi) suggests a middle category above “less than extraordinary” though below “truly extraordinary” or “especially extraordinary.”

10. 10  In other words, the summit of Dragon Somersault Rock.

11. 11  According to mountain lore, Mañjuśrī sometimes bathes in this pool.

12. 12  The name of this mountain col should not be confused with the island of the same name off the coast of Fujian province.

13. 13  Mount Heng, also known as the Sacred Mountain in the North, is north of Mount Wutai. Xu Xiake will visit there after his Mount Wutai trip is completed. His Mount Heng diary is translated below.

14. 14  This name probably refers to an opening in a rock formation that allows in a small amount of sunlight.

15. 15  On Xu Xiake’s use of the term “spirit and texture” to describe those qualities of the landscape he seeks to capture in his writing, see introduction, page lx, and Ward, Xu Xiake, 97.