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Wading Barefoot through a Mountain Stream: A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Wuyi

Wading Barefoot through a Mountain Stream
A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Wuyi
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table of contents
  1. Title Page
  2. Copyright
  3. Dedication
  4. Contents
  5. List of Illustrations
  6. List of Maps
  7. Acknowledgments
  8. Conventions
  9. Chronology of Major Chinese Dynastic and Historical Periods
  10. Introduction
  11. The Travel Diaries of Xu Xiake
  12. Part I: The Mountain Diaries, 1613–1633
    1. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Tiantai
    2. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Yandang
    3. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Baiyue
    4. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Huang
    5. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Wuyi
    6. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Lu
    7. A Later Sightseeing Trip to Mount Huang
    8. A Sightseeing Trip to Nine Carp Lake
    9. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Song
    10. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Taihua
    11. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Taihe
    12. Earlier Travels in Min
    13. Later Travels in Min
    14. A Later Sightseeing Trip to Mount Tiantai
    15. A Later Sightseeing Trip to Mount Yandang
    16. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Wutai
    17. A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Heng
  13. Part II: The Provincial Diaries, 1636–1639
    1. Travels in Zhe
    2. Travels in Jiangyou
    3. Travels in Chu
    4. Travels in Western Yue
    5. Travels in Qian
    6. Travels in Dian [Selected Writings]
  14. Appendix 1. Chronology of Xu Xiake
  15. Appendix 2. Commemorative Tomb Biography of Xu Xiake, by Chen Hanhui (1589–1646)
  16. Appendix 3. Biography of Xu Xiake, by Qian Qianyi (1582–1664)
  17. Appendix 4. “Short Biography of Xu Xiake,” from the Mount Chicken Foot Gazetteer
  18. Appendix 5. Preface [to The Travel Diaries of Xu Xiake], by Pan Lei (1646–1708)
  19. Appendix 6. “Lamenting Tranquil Hearing, My Buddhist Companion: Six Poems with a Preface,” by Xu Xiake
  20. Appendix 7. “Ten Views of Mount Chicken Foot: Seventeen Poems,” by Xu Xiake
  21. Bibliography
  22. List of Contributors
  23. General Glossary-Index
  24. Place-Name Glossary-Index

A Sightseeing Trip to Mount Wuyi

Relief map with numbered sites clustered around labeled bands and connected by a dashed route, with a directional arrow to Chong’an County and a legend listing the sites.Long description: A shaded relief map depicts mountainous terrain with ridges and valleys. Numbered points from 1 to 22 mark locations connected by a dashed route forming loops around labeled bends, including the First through Ninth Bends. A dense cluster of points from 1 to 20 lies near the lower center, with the route circling and branching to the north and links the points 21 and 22.A directional arrow toward Chon’an County lies at the top with a distance scale of 10 to 15 miles or 16 to 24 kilometers. A scale bar of 2 kilometers and 2 miles is at the lower left. A north arrow appears at the lower right.A legend on the right lists numbered locations: 1. Canopy Pavilion Peak, 2. Big King Peak, 3. Iron Plate Barrier, 4. Jade Maiden Peak, 5. Assembled Transcendents Cliff, 6. Big Storehouse Peak, 7. Royal Tea Garden, 8. Fishing Terrace, 9. Fowl Roost Cliff, 10. Celestial Sojourner Peak, 11. Echo Cliff, 12. Cao Family Rock, 13. Cloudy Den, 14. Tea Cave, 15. Hidden Screen Peak, 16. Three Admirations Peak, 17. Big Granary Rock, 18. White Cloud Cavern, 19. Human Face Rock, 20. Halt in Place Retreat, 21. Water Curtain Cave, 22. Carmine Rock Market.

Map 6. Mount Wuyi, 1616

[SPRING 1616, JIANNING PREFECTURE, CHONG’AN COUNTY, FUJIAN]

Mount Wuyi is in northwestern Fujian along the border with Jiangxi. Separated from the main section of the mountain by about 20 mi/32 km is a spur roughly 6 mi/10 km in length called Nine Bends [Jiuqu]. This toponym derives from a stream of the same name that serpentines through a series of bends, connecting the mountain and spur. This is Wuyi’s most famous scenic attraction. Sightseers like Xu Xiake typically take a tour boat through the Nine Bends, each with its unique set of scenic sites. From time to time, tourist boats would also stop to moor, allowing visitors to explore and investigate those places not visible from the stream.

Since at least the eleventh century, Wuyi has also been well known for its outstanding tea. Wuyi tea was so highly prized that loads were sent annually to the capital as tribute to the emperor. It should also be mentioned that since the Song dynasty, there has been a strong community presence of cults, beliefs, and legends on Wuyi associated with religious Daoism. Finally, one other aspect of Wuyi that has attracted attention in both traditional and modern times is the so-called boat coffins or Perched over the Gorge Boats (Jiahe zhou), which are inserted into natural cavities in many of Wuyi’s cliff walls. Xu Xiake describes the coffins in his diary entries below.

Twenty-first day of the second month [7 April 1616]: I departed from the south gate in Chong’an County and hired a boat. One stream, approaching from Watershed Pass [Fenshui Guan] in the northwest, and another stream from Warm Ridge Pass [Wenling Guan] in the northeast, merge south of the county, then pass through the commandery and provincial capital before flowing into the sea.1 Proceeded thirty li downstream, where I saw a peak spanning crosswise and sloping downward and another peak standing alone and towering aloft. I shouted out in amazement as I fixed my eyes on them. The one spanning crosswise is Canopy

Pavilion Peak [Manting Feng]; the one towering aloft is Big King Peak [Dawang Feng]. The stream south of the peak that heads east and flows into a big stream is Wuyi Stream [Wuyi Xi]. A peak next to Exalted Safekeeping Palace [Chongyou Gong] overlooks the stream. I was eager first to reach Ninth Bend and head downstream to explore and see the sights. So I abandoned plans to climb up to the palace and instead advanced upstream. The current was swift, so the boatman pulled the boat through the water barefoot. To the right of First Bend are Canopy Pavilion Peak [Manting Feng] and Big King Peak; to the left are Lion Peak and Avalokiteśvara Cliff. The site on the right edge of the stream is called Shimmering Water Rock [Shuiguang Shi]. Its surface is covered almost entirely with inscriptions. Iron Plank Barrier [Tieban Zhang] and Quill and Ink Cliff [Hanmo Yan] are to the right of the Second Bend. Helmut Peak [Doumou Feng] and Jade Maiden Peak are to the left. The cliff wall next to Iron Plank Barrier stands steeply erect. The three holes in the wall seem to form the Chinese character pin 品. To the right of Third Bend is Assembled Transcendents Cliff [Huixian Yan]; on the left are Little Storehouse Peak [Xiao Zangfeng] and Big Storehouse Peak [Da Zangfeng].

According to legend, mountain gods used boat coffins to transport the souls of the dead to paradise. Made from hollowed-out trunks of nan trees, the boat coffins on Mount Wuyi date back to the Tang and Song dynasties. They were used as burial chambers for important individuals and members of their families. Placing the coffins into tall cliff walls helped protect them from looters and grave robbers.

Big Storehouse’s rock wall stands one thousand fathoms high. Along the edge of its cliff are several cavities into which wood timbers, like those on a loom shuttle, are randomly inserted. A small boat is wedged into the opening, supported by the ends of timbers that extend out of the holes. These are known as “Perched over the Gorge Boats.” To the right of Fourth Bend is Fishing Terrace [Diaoyu Tai] and Rare Truth Cliff [Xizhen Yan]; to the left are Fowl Roost Cliff [Jiqi Yan] and Feasting the Transcendents Cliff [Yanxian Yan]. Halfway up to Feasting the Transcendents Cliff is a cave. On the outside, it is narrow, but inside, it is spacious. Wood boards are inserted sideways for support, like perches in a henhouse. The deep and dark blue pool below the cave is the Recumbent Dragon Pool [Wolong Tan]. To the right are the peaks of Great Hidden Screen [Da Yinping] and Joined Bamboo Shoots Peak [Jiesun Feng]; on the left are the peaks of Changing Clothes Terrace [Gengyi Tai] and Celestial Pillar, the scenic sights at the Fifth Turn. The Master of Literary Accomplishment Academy [Wengong Shuyuan] is below Great Hidden Screen.2 Upon reaching Sixth Turn, on the right are Transcendent’s Palm Cliff [Xianzhang Yan] and Celestial Sojourner Peak [Tianyou Feng]; on the left are Faced in Evening Peak [Wandui Feng] and Echo Cliff. I turned around and gazed back between Hidden Screen and Celestial Sojourner, where dangerous stairways and flying belvederes seemed to dangle from above. I could not help but feel enchanted by these sights! But our boat could not advance because of the swift current, so we returned to moor at Cao Family Rock [Caojia Shi].

Back on land, I went into Cloudy Den [Yunwo], everywhere passing lines of clouds and threading through rocks, then twisting and twining along sprawling cliffs until I found the trail. Behind Cloudy Den is Joined Bamboo Shoots Peak, parallel to Great Hidden Screen. Two lines span the peak’s midpoint; hence, they are called Joined Bamboo Shoots.3 I followed a rocky defile on its flank, then mounted several flights of stone steps. The mountains all around were enveloped in blue-green. Where there is lingering open space in the mountains that is flat like the palm of a hand—that is Tea Cave [Chadong]. One enters the cave from the west. South of the entrance is Joined Bamboo Shoots Peak; north of the entrance is Transcendent’s Palm Cliff. East of Transcendent’s Palm is Celestial Sojourner. South of Celestial Sojourner is Great Hidden Screen. The tops of the peaks are all steep and sheer, but below, they join together. There are no stone steps beyond them. The only trail is through a gap to the west, so the scene here is even more extraordinary and formidable than Bright Cave on Mount Tiantai! I continued to clamber and climb up to Hidden Screen. When I reached the highest point on its cliff wall, a large wood plank hung down to serve as a ladder. Clinging to the wall, it went straight up into the clouds. The ladder has three sections with eighty-one rungs in all. Where the rungs end, an iron cable spans across and connects to the cliff’s midpoint. Below the cable, foot holes are chiseled into the rock. After pulling myself up the cable, I turned on top of the peak and headed west. Pressed between the walls is a ridge that serves as the boundary between them. The ridge looks like a dangling tail. I climbed using the chiseled steps. This is the summit of Hidden Screen Peak [Yinping Feng]. It has a pavilion and bamboo growing on it, with cliffs overhanging on all four sides. Looking down from the void, the true transcendents up here seemed so far removed from the mundane world below! Following the same route, I descended the ladder and reached Tea Cave. Looking back at the places I had just climbed, they stood prominently in the Milky Way.

The cliff north of the defile is Transcendent’s Palm Cliff. Its cliff wall stands loftily and majestically on display. There are marks on the wall that look like the palm of a human hand. Marks an entire rod in length are aligned in several dozens of rows, which follow the cliff to the north and ascend to its apex. As the setting sun invaded the pines, the glowing light of the mountains and the twisting course of the stream’s flow complemented the scenic display. I then turned south and proceeded into a narrow valley. At the end of the valley, I was unexpectedly able to pass through and come out on top of a peak, where walls stood upright on three sides. A pavilion sits on top. This is Celestial Sojourner Peak. This peak is near Ninth Turn but does not overlook the stream. Instead, the stream rings around it on three sides. When you gaze east, there is Big King Peak. The stream from the First Turn to the Third Turn rings around it. When you gaze south, there is Changing Clothes Terrace. Nearby to the south are the peaks of Great Hidden Screen. The stream from Fourth Turn to Sixth Turn rings around it. There is Three Teachings Peak [Sanjiao Feng] when you gaze west.4 Nearby to the west are the peaks of Celestial Pot Peak [Tianhu Feng]. The stream from Seventh Turn to Ninth Turn rings around it. Only the north side lacks a stream. When the tiered and terraced mountains approaching from Water Curtain Cave [Shuilian Dong] reach here, they seem poised in midair. The one that looks down in front, providing a bird’s eye view—this is Tea Cave. Looking at the distance from Tea Cave, one only sees sheer walls reaching up into the empyrean. From its flank, a spring pours down in torrents. At first, I did not realize that above us, there were other peaks where one could stop to rest. This peak must rank first among the scenic spots that do not overlook the stream but can provide a complete view of the Nine Streams.5 Standing on a terrace, I gazed at the half disk of the setting sun. Peaks and tors, distant and nearby, were green and purple in countless shapes. Behind the terrace is Celestial Sojourner Abbey [Tianyou Guan]. I quickly took my leave from the terrace. By the time I reached the boat, dusk had already fallen.

Twenty-second day [8 April]: I went ashore, departed from Transcendent’s Palm, and headed west. The trail I followed turned out to follow the right shore of the stream. On the opposite side is the left shore. To the right of Seventh Bend are Three Admirations Peak [Sanyang Feng] and Celestial Pot Peak. To the left is Citadel on High Cliff [Chenggao Yan]. Below Three Admirations is Little Peach Source [Xiao Taoyuan], where a rock gate has formed beyond a collapsed cliff and heap of rubble. I hunched down and went through the gate, then came to a tract of land circled and surrounded by mountains on all four sides. Inside is a flat plot of land with a winding mountain stream, surrounded by verdant pines and lush green bamboo, with chickens clucking and people talking, all within a swath of hazy blue. I left through a gate and headed west, which leads to North Corridor Cliff [Beilang Yan]. The cliff’s summit is Celestial Pot Peak. Alone, it soars abruptly from Citadel on High Cliff on the opposite bank. It is sheer and steep on all four sides, like a city wall. There is a retreat on the cliff’s summit. It, too, can be climbed by a ladder that hangs down, but I failed to get there because it was on the other side of the stream. To the right of Eighth Bend are Drum Tower Cliff [Gulou Yan] and Drum Cliff [Guzi Yan]. Big Granary Rock [Da Linshi] and Sea Squirt Rock [Haizha Shi] are to the left. I passed west of Drum Tower Cliff, broke off the trail, and proceeded north into a col. Clambering and pulling myself along, I ascended to the summit of a peak, where two boulders stood upright like drums. This is Drum Tower Cliff. The cliff is lofty and extended, like a city wall. Below the cliff is a deep depression, the entire area of which looks like a corridor. Inside is a framed structure with horizontal railings.6 This is Drum Retreat [Guzi An]. I looked up at the top of the cliff, where wood boards were randomly stuck horizontally into holes in the rock face.7 I turned behind the cliff, where inside its wall was a cave, deep and spacious. It is called Master Wu’s Cave [Wugong Dong]. The stairway below the cave was in ruins, so I could not climb it. I gazed at Three Teachings Peak and then hurried along the stone steps by the side of the mountain. Thick-set trees mass and muster on top of the peak. I reached the peak, where a pavilion was perched on one side. From there, one can look east toward the peaks of Drum Tower and Drum Retreat. Three peaks stand on top of Three Teachings. Their rocky bones protrude as they stand together, side by side.8 I ascended by treading up some stone steps through a crack in the rock. On a cliff to the side, I came to a pavilion, then pushed by the pavilion and passed through a rock gate formed by two cliff walls squeezed together and towering aloft. The walls stand upright and reach the sky. The passageway through was a single thread in width, measuring just over one foot. As you proceed through, you feel spine-tingling terror. Presumably, the three peaks cluster together and stand upright; the passageway here is a crack between two peaks. There are still two other cracks on their flank, but they are not as orderly and honed as this passageway.

After descending, I turned and went to the back of the mountain. The single peak facing Kitten Rock [Mao’er Shi] and towering aloft, turning and extending, is also like Drum Peak [Gufeng]—this is White Cloud Cavern [Baiyun Dong] on Numinous Peak. I reached the top of the peak, then ascended a flight of stairs through a rocky crevice. Its two walls pressed close together and stood erect like Celestial Gate on Mount Huang. After the steps ended, I twisted and twined my way down to the bottom of the cliff. Because the cliff has framed structures, it is also like Drum Peak. I climbed up to the second floor of a loft and gazed to the south, where I saw an islet along the upper reaches of the Nine Bends. The stream approaches from the west, divides, and rings around the islet, then merges again when it reaches the bend. Beyond the islet, two mountains gradually come into view. The Nine Bends end at this cliff. Layered cliffs in pleats and folds are found here, and the surrounding terrain is serene and pleasing to the eye. At the northern end of the cliffs is yet another cliff that is especially remarkable: from top to bottom, it is a complete, sheer wall. An opening in the middle of the wall runs across, with a gap only as wide as a thread, and so one must lay one’s body prostrate and slither through like a snake. I moved forward by winding my way through an opening in the wall. Only then was I able to get through. I immediately proceeded through the opening, but a short time later, it gradually became lower, and gradually became more precipitous. Hunching over as I moved forward, the passageway became lower and narrower, so I crawled on my knees and slithered like a snake. When I reached a place in the opening where I had to make a turn, the gap between the top and bottom was only seven inches, while in width, it was a mere half a foot. Beyond the opening, the depth of the cliff reached countless fathoms. I crept and crawled to advance, my chest and back scraping against the top and bottom of the passageway. I twisted and threaded along for some time before I could get past the danger. As it turned out, the cliff is spacious and bright, tiered and terraced. I saw hatchet and chisel marks on the cliff. Someone wants to open a passageway but still has not finished the job.

Quite a while later, I backtracked to the cliff in front, then changed direction and reached the rear cliff. Just now, some new houses are being constructed, which are peaceful, spacious, and attractive. After I left, I headed toward Nine Bends Stream. Lion Cliff [Shizi Yan] is right there. Following the stream, I then backtracked. On the opposite side of the stream, I observed Human Face Rock [Renmian Shi] at Eighth Turn and Citadel on High Cliff at Seventh Turn, which I found quite amazing. Next, we moored the boat and went into Tea Cave through Cloudy Den. It is vaulted and arched, hidden and mysterious. Now that I am here a second time, I cannot leave! After turning left at Cloudy Den, I went into Fu Xi’s Cave [Fu Xi Dong], which is quite dark and extensive.9 On the left, I came out to the south side of Great Hidden Screen, the site of Purple Solarity Academy [Ziyang Shuyuan], where I paid respects to the statue in His Honor’s temple.10 As the boat proceeded downstream to the sound of beating oars, the verdant and lush green cliffs on both sides flashed and swirled by. Contrary to what might be expected, I hated that the boat was moving so fast. After passing Celestial Pillar Peak and Changing Clothes Terrace, the boat moored on the south shore of Fourth Bend. I went ashore at the Royal Tea Garden [Yucha Yuan], wanting to go around and come out on Golden Fowl Cliff [Jinji Yan], but I got lost in some brambles and clusters of thorns and never found a trail. So I proceeded east by way of the major trail behind the cliff, hoping there was a side trail by which I could climb up to Big Storehouse and Little Storehouse Peaks, but again, I never found a trail. I went down the trail behind the cliff and came out next to a stream, where I was already below Jade Maiden Peak. I wanted to look for Single Thread of Sky [Yixian Tian], so I paced about for a while, but no one was around to ask for directions. As for the boat, it was moored below Golden Fowl Peak, far out of voice range.11 So I searched for a trail along the stream, twisting and twining my way to the foot of Big Storehouse and Little Storehouse. This entire area has sheer cliff walls, which are lofty and soaring. Locals have planted many tea bushes where sandy soil has collapsed and formed banks. As I proceeded through the tender tea leaves and bush branches, I looked down at the stream far below, then looked up at dangerous cliffs above, but had no time to probe the so-called Transcendent Learning Hall [Xianxue Tang] and Concealing Transcendents Den [Cangxian Wo].

After reaching the Perched over the Gorge Boats, I saw an empty boat that appeared quite vividly. Compared to the perched boats I saw earlier along the stream, this one was much more vivid, with more details revealed. West of Big Storehouse, the trail gradually comes to an end. Ascending through thistles and thorns, I clung to the face of the cliff wall. Looking back at Big Storehouse’s western cliff, I saw another boat perched. But the cliffs stand facing one another, so I could not reach that location. Suddenly, a boat showed up, having come upstream from Second Turn. I quickly descended the mountain and hailed the boat. The boat approached me, and the person onboard was a sightseer who had just arrived. We agreed that I would backtrack to Changing Clothes Terrace and then, with him, survey Single Thread of Sky and the scenic sights around Roaring Tiger Cliff [Huxiao Yan]. Our two boats headed downstream after we got to where my boat was moored. If you want to ascend to Canopy Pavilion Peak and inquire about getting to Big King Peak, upon reaching Shimmering Water Rock at First Turn, you can arrange for a boat to wait for you at the mouth of the stream.

I went ashore and, after a short while, reached Halt in Place Retreat [Zhizhi An]. I gazed behind the retreat and saw a trail that could be ascended. So I hurried toward it, where I found a cliff on which a monk was reciting a sutra. This turned out to be Chan Cave [Chanyan]. I climbed the trail to the cliff’s peak, still west of Halt in Place Retreat. Following the same route, I descended before the retreat and turned west. I climbed the mountain for about two li and reached the area below the peak. Amid a jumbled bamboo forest, I searched for Climb to the Transcendents Rock [Dengxian Shi]. A peak suddenly rises next to it, shaped like it is looking up and expecting something. Crane Form Rock [Hemo Shi] is in a crevice of a peaked wall. With frosty-white plumage and a vermilion crown, the cracks and veins on the walls seem like they have been painted. The side trail ended, but a ladder hung against the sheer cliff wall. I stepped on the ladder and ascended. It shook and swayed as if it was about to collapse. When I got to the top of the ladder, I found a cave where Transcendent Zhang’s (Zhangxian) remains are thought to be preserved. The cave was halfway up the peak, and here I searched for Transcendent Xu’s Cave [Xuxian Yan].12 But there were rocky cliff walls everywhere and no way to get through. So I went down the ladder and searched for another trail but could not find one. As I treaded through the rocks, there was nothing but sheer cliff walls and no steps. Tracking through the wild grasses, they were all deep and thick-set, so I had no idea where to go. The porter up ahead found some broken stone steps and yelled that he had found a trail. My clothes were torn, but I did not care. I pressed onward toward Transcendent Xu’s Cave but again could not advance. The sun was already fading in the west, so, grabbing hold of some hanging brush, I clumsily slid down and descended, then found a trail leading to a spot to the right of Myriad Years Palace [Wannian Gong]. I hurried into the palace, which was vast and spacious. A feathered gentleman greeted me, saying, “No one has been able to reach the summit of Great King Peak for a long time. The ladder to Transcendent Zhang’s Cave [Zhangxian Yan] is intact. The six ladders on Great King Peak’s summit and the ladder to Transcendent Xu’s Cave have all rotted away. Transcendent Xu’s remains have already been moved into the Assembled Truth Temple [Huizhen Miao].”13

I left the temple and then turned right and passed Assembled Truth Temple. In front of the temple is a maple tree (feng) with dense leaves, lush and thriving, shading several acres.14 In girth, it measures the embrace of several dozens of people. I bid farewell to the feathered gentleman and returned to the boat.

Twenty-third day [9 April]: When I landed to search for scenic sights at Exchange One’s Bones Cave [Huangu Yan] and Water Curtain Cave, I gave instructions to the boatman to sail for ten li to Carmine Rock Market [Chishi Jie] and wait for me there.15 I then went into Assembled Truth Abbey [Huizhen Guan], where I paid respects to the Lord of Wuyi (Wuyi Jun) and the remains of Transcendent Xu.16 I left the temple and, following the eastern foot of Canopy Pavilion Peak, proceeded for two li, where I saw, behind that peak, three other peaks standing parallel. This was unusual, and so I asked about them. I was told this is Three Damsels Peak. Exchange One’s Bones Cave is next to it. I gazed at the cliff, then pressed on.

I climbed a mountain for about one li to a flying waterfall that gushed as it poured. I looked below, where there was also a dangerous-looking cliff wall. A spring suddenly shot out halfway up the wall. Sparse bamboo, mingling with light and shadow, provided delightful appeal. But I had already climbed this high, so it was too late to backtrack. I ascended another one-half li from Three Damsels and reached Exchange One’s Bones Cave. This is the rear cave of Canopy Pavilion Peak. There is a retreat in front of the cave. I climbed up to another cave on the two ladders hanging down behind the cliff. This cave is deep, but it wraps around the mountain’s crest like a layered barrier. The locals have recently used wooden boards to construct houses along the side of the cave. Crooked and straight, lofty and low, the houses twine and twist along the contour of the cave. Passing through the cave’s crevices, I clambered and traversed as I ascended. When I was about to reach Canopy Pavilion Peak, I stopped because the trail was blocked. I then backtracked to the foot of Three Damsels Peak, circled, came out behind it, and then again descended my earlier trail, reaching the spot where before I had looked down at the spring that suddenly shot out from the cliff wall. Where one crosses the mountain ridge from here—the way to Water Curtain Cave, from which one descends—is the way to the wall with the shooting stream. Earlier, when I looked down from there, I did not take in every aspect of the marvelous scenery. Having reached the spot again, I found myself below it. I gazed up at the shooting stream halfway up the cliff wall. Next to it, water is drawn to serve as a watermill.17 A ladder provides access to the mill, while a runnel has been chiseled into the wall to channel water from the stream. I climbed the ladder along the cliff wall and reached where the spring shot down. The depression it falls into only measures two rods, but everywhere above and below are perilous cliff walls. The spring comes down from the upper part of the wall and drops into the depression, and then, from inside the depression, it overflows and plummets farther down. Above and below, and on all four sides of the depression, no place lacks water. But inside it is a protruding rock upon which one can sit. I sat on it for some time, then descended the cliff wall, following a trail through some bamboo. Next, I crossed three ridges and proceeded about seven li along the midpoint of a mountain, then descended into a col. Next, passed through a rock gate, ascended for one-half li, and came to Water Curtain Cave. The precipitous cliff here is one thousand fathoms high. On top, it protrudes; below, it sinks deeply. A waterfall tumbles down from the cliff’s summit. The cliff is bold and expansive; the spring is also lofty and far-reaching. In one thousand strips, ten thousand strands, the waterfall seems to hang in midair—this, too, is a magnificent sight! Its cliff is lofty, soaring, and sticks straight up, so below the cliff, several rows of houses have been built, while the flying waterfall still manages to come down just beyond the railings of the houses.

Earlier, while on the road, I heard the scenery at Behold the Belvedere Stronghold [Duge Zhai] is quite extraordinary. A Daoist disciple suggested that if I took the same trail as before and crossed over a mountain, I could reach it. I departed from Rock Gate. But because I was enthralled by the surpassing scenery around the stream in a col, I mistakenly took the trail to Carmine Rock Market. Someone on the road suggested that if I crossed the little bridge there and proceeded south, that route would also get me there. Following his advice, I climbed up the mountain and passed into a defile that pressed in closely between two mountains. Inside the defile is a cave and some houses. As it turns out, the tablet inscription on the mountain reads “Duxia Cliff” [Duxia Yan]. The locals have mistakenly passed down the name as Duge [Behold the Belvedere], simple as that. Next, I found another cave with a building nearby. Its winding railing was seemingly poised above me. I gazed at Carmine Rock Market, which was nearby. I next followed my former trail for three li, crossed a stream, and proceeded another li, which took me to a big stream at Carmine Rock Market. I went down to the boat. We hoisted the sail and proceeded for twenty li, which took me back to Chong’an County.

—Translated by James M. Hargett

____________________

Source: “You Wuyi Shan riji; “Fujian, Jianning fu, Ch’ong’an xian” (YJJZ, 1:29–36; YJ, 1:18–14).

  1. 1  “Commandery” (jun) refers to Jianning Prefecture, while sheng (province) denotes the provincial capital (modern Fuzhou Shi, Fujian).

  2. 2  This academy is named after the Neo-Confucian scholar Zhu Xi (1130–1200). The Song imperial court posthumously conferred on Zhu the title “Wengong,” or “Master of Literary Accomplishment.”

  3. 3  In other words, the two lines or marks that span the peak’s midpoint make it look like two joined “rocky bamboo shoots,” or stalagmites.

  4. 4  The “Three Teachings” (Sanjiao) in this peak’s name refer to Confucianism, Daoism, and Buddhism.

  5. 5  That is to say, the Nine Bends.

  6. 6  The term “framed structure(s)” (jiawu) refers to buildings constructed over solid rock.

  7. 7  These wooden boards provided support for the boat coffins.

  8. 8  Xu Xiake often uses the expression “rocky bones” (shigu) to refer to vertically aligned and tapered rock columns resembling stalagmites.

  9. 9  Fu Xi (or Fuxi) was the first mythical emperor of China. Along with Nüwa, he is identified in legend as the progenitor of Chinese civilization.

  10. 10  “His Honor” refers to Zhu Xi, who supervised the construction of this famous academy.

  11. 11  In other words, if he shouted to someone on the boat for directions to the trail, they would not hear him because Xu was too far away.

  12. 12  The transcendents mentioned in these last two lines are not further identified.

  13. 13  “Feathered gentleman” is another name for a Daoist adept.

  14. 14  The phrase “several acres” (shumu) here is hyperbole. Xu Xiake’s point is that the shade cast by the maple tree covered a huge area.

  15. 15  The term huangu 換骨 (“exchange one bones”) is an abbreviation for tuotai huangu 脫胎換骨, or “shed one’s mortal body and exchange one’s bones.” In other words, become a Daoist transcendent.

  16. 16  Mount Wuyi derives its name from this legendary figure, who supposedly morphed into a transcendent on the mountain sometime during the Han dynasty.

  17. 17  The watermill mentioned here was used to hull grain.

Annotate

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